In Search of Ancient Puebloan Ruins

After a couple of nights in Flagstaff, AZ (which will be discussed in the next posting), we were off to meet up with friends from Park City to explore some of the ancient pueblo ruins in southern Utah.

But – first a turn-off that had been passed up many times in previous trips called to us.  At the end of Hwy 564, just west of Kayenta, is The Navajo National Monument protecting the Betatakin Ruins.  This was the home of the prehistoric Puebloan Ancestors who built Tsegi Phase villages within the natural sandstone alcoves of the canyons and who were the same people of the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde, Chaco Canyon (both seen on prior trips), Wupatki and Walnut Canyon (next post).   These resilient Ancestral Puebloans paved the way for current Native American groups in the Southwest region. The villages of Betatakin, which date from AD 1250 to 1300 – a mere five decades – thrill all who visit with original architectural elements such as roof beams, masonary walls, rock art, and hand and foot holds.  And we were no exception.  In fact – since we could only see the ruins from an overlook, we decided a return trip was in our future to take the 5 mile hike into the ruins;-)

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An early Hogan

 

The Overlook trail was short but provided more of those fantastic views of the cliffs that sheltered the ruins.

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Working our way down the trail to the cliff dwelling overlook.

 

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Click, click, click.

 

Even from our distance the ruins appeared to be in very good condition and well protected.  After all they were 700 years old!

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It was once a fair sized community

 

Unfortunately, we did not have time to do the hike to the bottom at this time as Blanding, Utah was calling.  So – we will be back.  But, now we were on thru Monument Valley –

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Monument Valley

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Blanding served as our jumping off point for the many hikes into the southern Utah Ancient Puebloan ruin sites with friends Marge and John.  After a dinner of catching up on Park City, families, health, etc, we set the schedule for the next three days.

First up was Mule Canyon with the primary destination of House on Fire – and any other ruins that might catch our eye.  So – into Mule Canyon we go –

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Hitting the trail into Mule Canyon with Marge and John Budd.

 

The first look at the ruins with its several walls and rooms is impressive but not overwhelming.  But – then you step back and look at the rock formation and coloration of the ledge protecting the ruins and it takes your breath away as it truly appears that flames are billowing out of the top of the house – –

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The House on Fire Ruins are appropriately named.

 

Notice the difference in the coloration and effect by stepping just a few steps in either direction –

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After staring at the wonder of the House on Fire for some time, we decided to wander on up the canyon a bit.  Not many more ruins were found, but we did find a rock that needed to be pushed back off the trail (right!).

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Trying to reposition a small tilting rock.

 

Back in the car we ventured just up the road a piece and found the Mule Canyon Ruins site with an incredibly well preserved Kiva.  Interestingly, this was almost on the road.

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A Kiva at the Mule Canyon Ruins site.

 

Almost across the street was an unmarked dirt road that our traveling companions insisted would lead us to a wonderful find – The Cave Tower Ruins.  Since they had been here before they knew what they were talking about and here we were with the ruins of seven towers protecting the homes in the facing ledge.

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The Cave Towers Ruins sit atop and within an arm of Mule Canyon.

 

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Weather, time and human activity have taken their toll on the cliff dwelling in the canyon.

 

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The views were spectacular.

 

Dinner that night provided ample time to relive the sights of the day and to discuss the hike for the next day – the 8 mile loop trail at Natural Bridges National Monument.    This trail takes you past the Sipapu and Kachina Bridges, Horse Collar Ruins and wonderful pictographs and petroglyphs.  Of course all of this is at the bottom of White Canyon and one has to get down the 700 ft vertical drop into the canyon in order to enjoy it.   Both Gary and Marge have a problem with heights, but Gary had done part of this hike previously and assured Marge “it was OK”!

So – about 9 the next morning we were off.  After the several flights of ‘stairs’ we started with the ladders – –

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Starting our descent into White Canyon.  Marge was a real trooper.

 

Then a brief respite before we started with the really good ladders – –

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Dancing beneath Sipapu Bridge – the 2nd largest Natural Bridge.

 

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Ugh…more ladders.

 

But, once we got to the bottom the sights and findings made it all worth it.  AND – the pictures speak for themselves.  Remember these are at least  700 – 1,000 years old!

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Lots of pictographs along the trail.

 

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The Horse collar Ruins.

 

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The canyon walls were massive and awesome.

 

Just before the Kachina Bridge, we met up with another hiker who told us of a ruin site just beyond the bridge to the right (one not ‘advertised’ by the Rangers).  We were off and were well rewarded for the extra effort.  This was a site that appeared to be in the middle of excavation and investigation as much of it was roped off.  Even so – we were in the middle of it and there were wonderful pictographs and petroglyphs and several structures.

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More pictographs and ruins near the Kachina Bridge.

 

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Beautiful butterfly.

One could not help but wonder how old this pictograph really is?!?  It was a beautiful, very detailed painting of what certainly appeared to be a butterfly.  And, one wonders if the handprints were perhaps the equivalent of ‘signatures’ of the inhabitants.  Perhaps the picture below was of one of the family members??

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More petroglyphs.

 

The 700 vertical feet down was much easier than the 700 vertical straight up on the way out.  But – the real killer was the 2 mile hike back to the car once we were out of the Canyon!  Poor planning on our part;-(  Good news is – we made it and after a good dinner and another daily recap, we were almost ready for that third day of searching for more ruins;-)

So, off in search of that dirt road that would take us along the Butler Wash, and then in search of the little dirt path that would take us to Fishmouth Cave.  These ruins were really protected within the ledges and were tucked away out of sight.  Thankfully prior hikers had left cairns to provide hints to wander off the trail for more discoveries.  And we did – –

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Day three hike to Fishmouth Cave along Butler Wash. 

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Pottery sherds and dried corn cobs in the ruins.

 

This was a rugged, tiring, fulfilling and educational three days that would not be traded for anything.  The sights were amazing.  And, sitting and wondering what was going on in these homes hundreds of years ago was quite thought provoking and created much conversation among us.  How much like our daily activities were theirs (raising food, finding food, cooking, eating, taking care of children, improving their home and surroundings, etc.) – and where did they go and why?

We did not even scratch the surface of what there is to see in this area.  Butler Wash alone had half a dozen side roads to ruins – we did one!  And there are endless roads like the Butler Wash road.  Too much to see and do and way too little time.

But, these few days had to come to an end and we had to say good-bye and thank you to Marge and John for taking us on this adventure.

Overwhelmed – E & G from Southern Utah and ages past

 

One comment on “In Search of Ancient Puebloan Ruins

  1. Bethany Byrne's avatar Bethany Byrne says:

    LOVING your pics! “Overwhelmed” is right, I’m just looking at the sites on a screen and I feel that way! How amazing 🙂 Enjoy! And thanks for posting so we can “ride along” 🙂

    Like

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