Yellowstone NP – The First & The Best;-)

Next stop for ‘The Owlheads’ was our very FIRST NP (and the best) – Yellowstone!

What is in store for ‘The Owlheads’ here??

 

Thank goodness President Grant was convinced to create a novel protection mechanism for our country’s natural beauty (not yet seen anywhere in the world) and declared Yellowstone the world’s first national park in 1872;-)   For the first time, preservation of America’s most remarkable landscapes became a common national and international goal.  This action was a forerunner to the naming of UNESCO World Heritage Sites – which Yellowstone NP was also named in 1978.

At the heart of Yellowstone’s past is the supervolcano whose latest eruption was about 630,000 years ago.  The center of the volcano collapsed, forming a 30- by 45-mile caldera, or basin, which is now the center of the park.  The heat powering those eruptions still fuel the park’s geysers, hot springs, fumaroles and mud pots – which includes the most famous of all – –

Old Faithful erupted right on time.

The waterfall created by Old Faithful.

A walk around the Upper Geyser Basin ..

A rainy walk around the Upper Geyser Basin.

The Anemone Spring – – Beautiful or Ugly?????

 

At least E was a little concerned that the granddaughters might find Yellowstone a bit ‘boring’ as the emphasis here was more on geologic makeup (perhaps appealing to a little older age group) than animals – although Old Faithful DID amaze!!  However, the park’s ecosystems range from near desert vegetation to subalpine meadow and forest, all of which support a variety of habitats that sustain diverse wildlife like bison, elk, grizzly and black bears and wolves (sadly – no wolf sightings during our stay).   And Lamar Valley is the perfect habitat for much of this wildlife.  So – we were off on a road trip and all concerns about the lack of animals were washed away with MANY fortuitous sightings!!  AND – E & G learned what a fantastic time spring is to travel through these areas as ‘babies’ of all species abound;-)

First up – an elk cow keeping watch over her calf.

Other than the random elk, it seems the animals of the day needed to be ‘B’ animals – Bison, Bald Eagle, Bear and Badgers!  ‘The Owlheads’ heads were swiveling and the babies were plentiful and soooooo cute;-)

We saw lots of bison calves referred to as “red dogs”.

The mature bulls are as big as cars! They spend most of the year (except mating season) alone.

A bald eagle keeping watch in its nest across the river.

This black bear (yes this ones coat is brown) was the first of many fortuitous bear encounters in the park;-)

G couldn’t get the camera up fast enough to capture the front ends of this mother badger and her three little ones that crossed the road in front of us.

This female longhorn sheep folded herself in half to keep an eye on us.

 

WOW!  What a day of animal sightings Lamar Valley provided.  What isn’t seen in the pictures above is how much we laughed at the numbers of bison.  A Jr. Ranger task was to count those in Lamar Valley – we quit at approximately 500+ when we came around a curve and saw a whole hillside dotted with them;-)!!!!

Back to geology at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River.  Here one can see the geologic history in dramatic colors and shapes.  The canyon formed when hydrothermal activity altered and weakend the bedrock, making the stone softer so that the Yellowstone River could erode the weakened rocks to deepen and widen the canyon.  The hydrothermally altered rhyolite and sediment creates the multi-hued layers of orange, yellow, brown and green in the canyon.

The ever beautiful Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

The Shoe Crew at The Brink of the Lower Falls.

Spotted a young osprey along the way.

The 308-foot Lower Falls from a distance.

 

The trip to and from The Canyon was also eventful – full of fortuitous bear sightings!  The grizzlies were out to give us a VERY good show;-)  (And to think – E was worried about seeing animals in Yellowstone?!?!?!)

First up – what the Ranger identified as a young couple – –

Typical male – bored with it all.

He resorted to begging.

What part of NO don’t you understand?!?!

All these people are watching us.

Maybe if we wave at them they will take the hint and hit the road.

An hour passes quickly with such wonderful, natural entertainment and the girls were thrilled!  But, we really needed to move on down the road.  Didn’t get far, though, until we had another fortuitous sighting – a Mother Grizzly and her two cubs;-)!!  Bear cubs are born in the deep winter months during the hibernation period.  In April and May, they begin to venture out with their mother – and stay with her for two to three years before the Mom kicks them out so she can mate again.  What a sight – –

Even with bears – kids look just like their Mom’s!

Kids will be Kids!

Siblings giving each other a hard time.

Something caused the more skittish cub to run for cover .

Okay, let me show you two how to drink from the stream.

 

All of a sudden, another hour had passed.  But, who cares with such natural entertainment.

Time to take a little time and check out some more of that geysers, hot springs, mud pots stuff.  After all, that is why Yellowstone was established.  So – off to Fountain Paint Pots to walk the boardwalk and ‘enjoy’ that sulfur smell that made the girls hold their noses;-)  A  perfect place to see the hot springs pools – the most common hydrothermal features in the park – –

Such beautiful, clear blue water – so inviting.  Uh – NO!!

– – the mudpots, which are acidic features with a limited water supply.  Therefore, their consistency and activity varies with the seasons and precipitation.

Bubble, bubble, toil and trouble.

And, the geysers, which erupt with steaming hot water.  Their regularity and predictability depend upon their underground reservoir.

 

E decided something she would really like to do was a Ranger Talk/Walk through Mammoth Hot Springs, as this was a new area of exploration for E&G.  Unlike the Old Faithful area which changes very little over 100’s of years due to its rhyolite makeup – the Mammoth Hot Springs terraces are like living sculptures.  Its makeup of travertine, which builds up rapidly, causes the features to change quickly and constantly with changes in the volume of water, the slope of the ground and objects in the water’s path.  Here, as in few other places on earth, rock forms before your eyes.  Take lots of pictures if you visit – because if you return in a few years, the view will be very different!

A well-informed, enthusiastic Ranger gave a fantastic tour.

The village of Mammoth Hot Springs in the distance as seen from the Terraces boardwalk.

A stunning view at Canary Spring!

Turns out the girls enjoyed this adventure as much as E & G;-)

And, of course, as we were leaving the talk – another fortuitous sighting!!

Good morning black bear!

 

After this enlightening morning and all the other Yellowstone activities,  the requirements for the Yellowstone Junior Ranger badge had been completed.  So – we were off to the Visitor Center with the completed documentation for the Ranger and the swearing in ceremony!  What a morning;-)

Earning their Yellowstone Junior Ranger Badges.

 

The Visitor Center at Mammoth Hot Springs is housed in the buildings of ‘Fort Yellowstone’.  When the Yellowstone area was made a National Park in 1872, the park was under serious threat from those who would exploit its resources AND there was NO National Park Service.  So, from 1886 to 1918, the US Army stepped in to help.  Fort Yellowstone is a testament to the long history of our first national park and of the important role the Army played in preserving it for the future.  It is now the home of the Park Headquarters.  This was a wonderful area to be our home base for the 5 days in Yellowstone;-)

As the days wound down – there were a few remaining sights to document – –

A pronghorn up close and personal.

A marker passed every day in our comings and goings.

Our view across the valley from Gardiner MT at the north entrance to the Park.  (Yep – it snowed on us the first night!!)

 

What a wonderful time was had by all ‘The Owlheads’ in Yellowstone NP;-)  It was also really nice to stay in Gardiner, MT at the original entrance to the park – and the only entrance back in 1872.  Mammoth Hot Springs was only 5 miles away, with all its history, beauty, elk herd AND a great dining room!  But, as is always true, all good things must come to an end.  So – we took one last trip through the Roosevelt Gate and said good-bye to Yellowstone.

See you next time.

 

The words and pictures above do not do justice to the fun adventure we had in these 10 days.  The Grand Tetons and Yellowstone NP’s provided the beauty, activities and wildlife for our enjoyment.  Family provided the FUN!  How else could you come up with things like ‘The Owlheads’ and laugh at fortuitous sighting after fortuitous sighting?!?!

One more BIG thank you to our NP’s!!  In Love with it All – E & G

Grand Tetons National Park

Growing up in the west and spending most of our time here, there is a great partiality to the scenery and sights of the west.  Especially the lands within our National Parks (NP).  It is impossible to visit this area and not have your breath taken away by the stunning sights in every direction!!  During the next 10 days E & G shared this with the granddaughters (and their parents) and watched them giggle with excitement around every turn;-)!!

Humans going back 10,000 years must have felt the same as they began visiting the Jackson Hole area.  Various bands of Paleo-Indians made summer camps near the Tetons soon after the last major ice age (about 10,000 years ago).  But, because the winters are so severe, long-term residency really did not occur here until about 120 years ago.  Then hunters and trappers found the area lucrative.  And in 1872 President Ulysses S. Grant declared neighboring Yellowstone the world’s first national park and drew attention to this part of the country.  The result was a new industry in the region – tourism!

Thankfully, the Tetons received some protection in 1897 when Congress created the Teton Forest Reserve followed by the creation of a NP in 1929.  But at that time the NP only included the central peaks of the Teton Range and half a dozen lakes.  It was a very rocky road (no pun intended) to get to the park we know today, including an intervention by John D. Rockefeller, Jr., at one point, to acquire land and donate it back to help in the preservation and creation of the park.   Finally in 1943 President Roosevelt used a  presidential proclamation to create a National Monument leading to the park of today in 1950.  Thank goodness!!

With no foothills to obstruct views, the jagged peaks and deep canyons of the Teton Range rise abruptly from the Jackson Hole valley creating striking, magnificent sights that take your breath away;-)

The Teton Range – with the highest peak, The Grand Teton – rising behind Jackson Lake.

Daughter Heather, son-in-law Christian and granddaughters Kira, Olivia and Haley.

 

There was a lot of exploration of the various landscapes ‘housed’ in the Grand Tetons NP. First up – the lakes, ponds and wet meadows of the area surrounding our campground at Coulter Bay.

Let’s explore – shortly after arrival.

197 2019 06 02 Colter 009

Then we were off across Jenny Lake and into the forests to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point.

Hidden Falls – the pic does not do justice to the stunning beauty;-(

The views of Jenny Lake were great from Inspiration Point.

TA DA! (Think they are having a good time?!?!?)

One thing learned on drives and hikes through the park – one never knew what animals might appear around the next corner – –

A curious marmot checking out the passers by.

 

As anyone who knows us might guess – we did NOT let any grass grow under any feet on this trip!!  So another hike was on the agenda.  This one around String & Leigh Lake with the reward of lunch at Jenny Lake Lodge;-)

7 Happy Hikers.

 

Throughout the trip, the girls became Junior Rangers at both the Tetons and Yellowstone.   This required many activities, observations and ranger talks.  One requirement in the Tetons was to ‘feel the water in a glacier made lake’.  So, here we are – –

 Some very cold water. How cold is it?

 

The word for our entire trip became – “fortuitous”!!  It was used many times and laughed over a lot.  One of the first such times was on a stop at Oxbow Bend to get this stunning picture of Mt. Moran and its reflection in the very still water – –

– – – only to find nesting grey herons across the way – –

Surprise!!  2 Great Grey Herons working on their nest.

 

That was NOT the only fortuitous animal sighting!!  Our first morning we happened into Jackson Lake Lodge just as the Jackson Hole Raptor Rescue organization was beginning  a raptor talk – today’s topic was owls.  Everyone was so impressed with the presentation and the birds, the schedule was modified to attend the presentation in Jackson the following day on other raptors.  Again – the girls loved it!  Especially talking to the handlers about everything from feeding to cleaning up the habitats.  In fact – after these talks, we became ‘The Owlheads’, as our heads needed to swivel like the owls in order to spot animals on the drives through the parks;-)!!

A chance to see these beautiful birds up close.

210 2019 06 04 Elk Pres011

Jackson Lake Lodge also provided the only moose sighting of the entire trip;-(  Although we looked and looked – this was it – –

Our only moose sighting was at a great distance;-(

 

BUT – there were many fortuitous bear sightings, all of which were very exciting!!

Blondie, a grizzly, spent her time in some distant thickets.

This young black bear was digging up lots of roots.

 

Uh oh!  Last night in the Grand Tetons and we had not visited an historical sight for the Junior Ranger badge;-(  So, after a quick dinner ‘The Owlheads’ were off to the Cunningham Cabin, one of the best of the few remaining homestead cabins in Jackson Hole.  J. Pierce Cunningham established the surrounding land as the Bar Flying U Ranch in the 1880’s when he arrived here from New York at twenty years old.

The historical Cunningham Cabin.

 

Having all the requirements of the Junior Ranger program completed, we were back at the campsite for dessert – warm cookies ‘cooked’ over the campfire with ice cream;-)

 

YUM!!

 

Before we left the area, there had to be a picture in Jackson with all those elk antlers!

Always fun to wander downtown Jackson, WY.

 

And finally (after that quick visit to the Cabin) at 8AM on the morning we left the Tetons – there was a swearing in ceremony at the Ranger Station and we had new Junior Rangers.

Kira and Haley being sworn in as Junior Park Rangers.

 

What a wonderful and fortuitous five days in the Grand Tetons!  Several hikes, many animal sightings, stunning scenery, lots to learn and warm campfires.  Could Yellowstone possibly be any better?!?!  We are off to find out.

See ya in Yellowstone – E & G and all ‘The Owlheads”

Wandering Wyoming

Time to hit it again.  Continuing west, that infamous place where thousands of motorcyclists gather every August was a hop, skip and a jump from Rapid City – Sturgis, SD.  Can’t even imagine how this little community supports that influx of people!

Almost 500,000 motorcyclists converge here every August.

One of MANY saloons here – quiet now, but sure it ‘roars’ in August!

 

One more brief detour from I-90 took us slightly north to Devils Tower National Monument – America’s first National Monument, proclaimed as such by Theodore Roosevelt in 1906.  This iconic formation is a striking monolith rising above the surrounding countryside.  Powerful in its appearance – it can look dramatically different depending on the time of day or the weather in the area.

It is the subject of several controversies from its origin to its name.  Geologists agree that the tower is igneous rock, but exactly how it came to be – especially 1,200 feet above the surrounding valley – is the question.  However it originated, it has existed exactly as it is today since people first arrived here more than 10,000 years ago.

Several Indian nations have shared the area around the tower and have their own legends about its origin – and its name.  The Kiowa people say that children were playing on the grassy fields when one turned into a bear.  The other children were terrified and ran to the stump of a great tree.  They climbed upon the stump and it began to rise into the air.  The bear came after them rearing against the tree and scoring the bark with its claws – thus the columnar appearance of the tower.  This may also be the origin of the tower’s name – “Bear Lodge” – the English translation of a Lakota name (the Lakota’s were the dominate culture of the Black Hills in the 1850’s).  Many maps even from the early 1900’s refer to the butte as “Bear Lodge”.  However, in 1875 a geologic expedition resulted in an entry calling the place “bad god’s tower”, believed to be an erroneous translation from the Indians.  This was modified to “Devil’s Tower”.  Despite all the maps and sources labeling the formation as Bear Lodge, the new name of Devil’s Tower stuck.

Devils Tower – an ominous sight.

Doesn’t it just look like a huge tree stump that could have been ‘scored’ by an angry bear?!?

If you look close you can see two of the approximately 5,000 climbers who come annually from all over the world to climb the massive columns.

We decided not to climb – but to go have lunch instead. We had a nice view though.

 

All of the above diversions is how we turn 4 hours of travel into 8-9 hours.  But – as is said – it is not the destination it is the journey!  And we do enjoy the journey;-)

So – Casper, WY finally appeared on the horizon and became ‘home’ for the next two days.  Time for some of the mundane chores, but a round of golf was also inserted into the agenda.  The Casper Muni course provided some beautiful views, more wildlife and some pretty challenging golf (at least for us!).

Yep – that’s snow in the background!!

These guys didn’t seem at all bothered by our presence.

G had a staring contest with this Robin.

 

Although not spoken of frequently, there is a search in every town to find good local restaurants – especially a good Thai or Chinese restaurant.  And we found a gem here in Casper!!  Dsasumo Thai is well worth a visit if you are ever in the neighborhood;-)

And so we go – from the first National Monument, Devils Tower (1906), to the first National Park, Yellowstone (1872), where we will be meeting daughter Heather and her family next.  Both of these wonders are in Wyoming and both provide stunning sights!

E & G – blown away yet again by an awesome National Monument.

The Badlands – South Dakota

It may seem a bit overdoing it – but, Clear Lake really drained us (in a good way!).  That plus a loooong travel day and a downpour resulted in a catch up day.  That means the gym, grocery store and an afternoon of cooking and baking;-)

Once the batteries were recharged, we decided that Badlands NP deserved another chance.  (Our first visit left us very unimpressed!)  So happy for second chances;-)

Badlands is described as ‘desolation at its purest’ – where you can look for miles and see no sign of civilization.  This is so true.  It is 244,000 acres of spectacular landscapes, the largest extent of native mixed grass prairie in the park system, a large variety of native wildlife (bison, bighorn sheep, pronghorn and prairie dogs), world class deposits of protected fossils and wonderful skyscapes.  It is the serrated Badlands terrain that provides these awesome sights.  Amazingly – the erosion that provides this interest did not begin until about 500,000 years ago when water began to cut down through the rock layers, carving fantastic shapes into what had been a flat floodplain.  And now we have deep canyons, towering spires and flat-topped tables.  (As an aside – neither E nor G remember such green grass atop these mesas from the last visit.  It was quite brown and much less inviting.  So, note to visitors – come in the spring/early summer.)

Now – off on the Castle Trail to see what there is to see – native mixed grass prairie, wildlife and wonderful skyscapes – –

The Castle Trail – where erosion has created ‘castles’ in every direction.

Spectacular views.  Love all the grass topped ‘tables’;-)

Along the trail…

… we encountered a rattlesnake – –

– – and bighorn sheep, who didn’t seem to care that we we nearby.

This one scurried down this steep slope like it was level.

 

Thank goodness for second chances – and for our National Park System;-)  As we continue to say frequently – GET OUT THERE AND ENJOY WHAT OUR NATIONAL PARKS HAVE TO OFFER!!!  You will LOVE it;-)

Can’t get enough of natural beauty – E & G

Surf Ballroom Rocks

Clear Lake, Iowa!?!  REALLY???  WHY???  Where is it??

As is always said – “the fun is enjoying the getting there not just the end result”.  So – you have to wait for all the answers;-)

The blog postings have reported several times that MiniMagic has dodged LOTS of predicted BAD weather – tornadoes, hail, high winds, etc., etc., etc.!!  This travel day was no exception.  Maybe – just maybe – we could slip between the two red and yellow blobs on the radar.  Spoiler alert – we DID.

Dodging another thunderstorm.  Many thanks to the weather God protecting us;-)

 

MiniMagic took us across the Mississippi, signaling we were on our way west.  One might remember our discussion back in Baton Rouge about the rising Mississippi River and that it was to be in flood stage there in early June.  Well – a little further north in Iowa the river was frightfully high – –

The Mississippi in Iowa is quite high! Getting close to the tracks here – and the road.

 

Somehow MiniMagic found this quaint little village of Sabula, Iowa right on the Mississippi (for lunch) as we ventured up this green dot road.  There is nothing like a small town in the US on a long weekend celebrating a day like Memorial Day.  The display of flags in the cemeteries and along the roads is tear evoking.  Sabula even included the small white crosses – each with a veterans name.  (Small note – the residents here did all of this while sandbagging and pumping out their basements full of water.)

Memorial Day weekend in small town Iowa.

Flags and white crosses – what a reminder.

 

Now – Clear Lake.  February, 1959 (60 years ago, so you don’t have to do the math) the Winter Dance Party (what was to be a 24 day barnstorming tour in the Midwest) played the Surf Ballroom in Clear Lake.  Buddy Holly, Ritchie Valens and “The Big Bopper” performed along with Waylon Jennings, Dion and the Belmonts and many others.  For the first three this would be their last performance on the fateful night of February 2, 1959.  To those of us who lived their songs – visiting here was an emotional experience.

The legendary Surf Ballroom.

Concerts are still performed here throughout the year.

Tiers of tables ring the dance floor.  (Yes – we “took a turn” on the floor.) 

Richie Valens, Buddy Holly and The Big Bopper remembered across from the stage.

The Green Room – where the performers prepared for their turn on stage – has been maintained much as it was in 1959.  This includes the ‘ancient’ sinks that served as ‘laundry machines’ for those here on February 2, 1959 as well as the very chairs they sat in.  (More recent groups have been allowed to ‘leave their marks’ on the walls.  Amazing who you can find here now!)

G may be sitting where Buddy Holly sat.  ‘Laundry sinks’ to his right;-)

Don McLean wrote the first verse of American Pie on the Green Room wall in 1994.

Buddy Holly was frustrated and fed up with their travel arrangements and the continuous breaking down of the buses.  So, he chartered a private plane – NOT named Miss American Pie as famously rumored – for himself and his backup players.  As they were leaving the Ballroom late after their performance, there was a lot of jockeying for places on the plane and two of his band members gave up seats to Ritchie Valens and The Big Bopper.  Unfortunately, the weather was VERY bad that late night and the plane perhaps should have never taken off.  But – it did.  And crashed in a corn field just 6 miles from the airport killing all aboard – –

The site of the plane crash – in the middle of a corn field.

The marker for the trail to the crash site memorial.  What could be more appropriate?

Very tasteful, fitting memorial.

The “best” hotel in town. Many Surf Ballroom acts have stayed here over the year.  Hum –  who stayed in our room?  Maybe G’s girlfriend Faith Hill;-)

 

The journey to Clear Lake, Iowa was intentional.  Our love for this era of music runs deep and the sadness for the loss of these talented individuals is real.  Visiting these venues truly meant something to us and we are so happy to have made the trek.

As an aside – Clear Lake is a wonderful, very friendly little town – on a gorgeous lake with a quaint little downtown square on the Lake – that has done a superb job of maintaining this bit of music history.  Hats off to them;-)

E & G – moved, happy, emotional & reminiscent.

Two More (Interesting) National Parks

Where does one go from Gettysburg?  It is hard to leave THAT reality and come back to the present.  But, perhaps a few more National Parks will help us – especially the two that are next up on our agenda.

Cuyahoga Valley National Park is quite different for those of us coming from the west and used to the wide open expanse of a National Park (NP) like Yellowstone or Yosemite.  Instead, this NP wanders in and out of cities and towns protecting the banks of the Cuyahoga River as it twists and turns through 90 miles of the Valley.

This river valley has attracted people for nearly 12,000 years!  An important transportation route for American Indians, this area was deemed neutral territory by historic tribes so all might travel safely from the Great Lakes waters ultimately to the Ohio River and the warm waters of the south.  European explorers and trappers arrived in the 1600’s.  The Ohio & Erie Canal opened in 1827 and ran parallel to and partly watered by the Cuyahoga River.  The canal replaced the river as the primary transportation artery.  Both the river and the canal created commercial development through 200 years, overtaking the beautiful green space that has been saved by the NP designation.

The NP preserves 33,000 acres along 22 miles of this crooked river that includes some beautiful sights.  One of which is the Brandywine Falls.  And we were lucky enough to stay at the adjacent historic Brandywine Inn so we could walk to the Falls – –

The Lovely Inn at Brandywine Falls – our room at the left.

The Picturesque Brandywine Falls – –

– – Slippery rocks.

As the canal became more important than the river for transportation, there were places where the barges on the canal had to be raised over the river via locks and aqueducts!

A canal lock that would raise the canal barge to the level of the green marker on the left.

This valley was sculpted long ago by water, glaciers and the persistent forces of weather creating diverse landscapes, including steep and gentle valley walls.  Perhaps one of the best ways to see this diversity is on the Ledges Trail Loop.  We loved this hike – –

Beautiful examples of the layered ages along the Ledges Trail.

Wildlife here was pretty special also.

A few other sights and sounds in the area seemed special for one reason or another.  There was an old water pump in the yard of the Inn that reminded E of the pump in the backyard of her grandparents in Ohio.  When visiting her grandparents, it was her task to go out and fetch the water for the house;-)

Fortunately there WAS running water in our room.

And then there was this bit of amusement – at least for us coming from Park City – –

A ski resort near Akron? What you see is the WHOLE thing!!

After all of our careful planning to this point, we were now in our ‘play it by the seat of our pants’ portion of the trip!  Mainly because MiniMagic needed an unscheduled stop at Airstream headquarters in Jackson Center, Ohio.  Seems that no matter the size of these types of vehicles – they have their problems and want to return to ‘the Mother Ship’;-)

Visiting the Airstream Service Center for a little work.  E is now referring to MiniMagic as “hunk o’ junk”.

The good news is the work was completed on a fairly timely basis, which allowed us to get another 4 hours west.  Valparaiso became our ‘home’ for a couple of days – and guess what we found??  Another National Park.  A brand new NP as of February, 2019, The Indiana Dunes NP is another interesting experience.  Protected lakefront, dunes, beaches and riverwalks mingle in and out of steel mills and other very industrial areas.  The Dunes Succession Trail at the West Beach takes one on a journey through grandparent dunes covered in mature oaks and hickory trees to younger vegetation on the youngest dunes to the beaches of Lake Michigan.

250 steps leading to those ‘old’ dunes.

Downtown Chicago (about 28 miles across the lake) from the dunes.

165 2019 05 24 Lk Mich 004

This water is COLD! 

 

And so, our interesting journey to two VERY different NP’s comes to a close.  Our country is really diverse – even in its NP’s!!  Each is beautiful in its own way once you take the time to explore it;-)

From one NP to another – E & G

Fun Times with Friends (& A National Military Park!)

It has been several years since this particular group has gotten together – and it is always lots of laughs and long hours of catching up and reminiscing.  For many years the gathering place was our home in Park City.  But, more recently it has been the Singley (Nancy & Mike) Farm or home – which it was on this occasion.  Joining us, to round out the usual group of suspects, were Gary and Chuck from Wisconsin.  Besides providing breakfasts and dinners, the Singley’s were also activity planners.  For three days one was never sure what might transpire?!?!  What charade actions might bust us all up while playing Heads Up.  Or, when Gary might show up in the kitchen with a bug zapper (or why??) – – –

G brings out the “BugGun”, which effectively zaps flies with a blast of salt.

 

Since clocks and watches are near and dear to their hearts (100’s in their home and a daughter who is an horologist), one planned activity was the nearby National Watch and Clock Museum.  Fun Fact learned there – As early as 4200 BC, the Egyptians had noted that Sirius the Dog Star rose in the morning once a year directly in line with the sun.  Guess how many sunrises between this annual event?  365 days!!  Our calendar dates back to 4200 BC.  There were many other fun facts to learn here about time and many interesting clocks to see.

This is one BIG timepiece.

 

Ok gang.  Time (no pun intended) to move on to Hershey and take care of E’s chocolate fix.  The trip there took us thru Amish country and it was about time for all the Sunday visits to take place.  So – lots of families on their way.

Encountered numerous buggies on the way to Sunday afternoon activities.

 

And then- -E was in heaven.  Hershey, PA – home of all that chocolate you eat every day;-)

Who is the BIG kid here?!?!?

 

Another day – another experience.  This one was much more sobering, as we moved on to Gettysburg, a National Military Park.  Before we took to the battlefield on our Segways, we wandered the town of Gettysburg.  It is not always remembered that after the three days of battle here, this little town was left in shambles with over 51,000 soldiers dead on the battlefield, wounded or missing.  It is also not always remembered that President Lincoln came here and delivered that famous Gettysburg Address to dedicate a proper burial ground for the Union dead FOUR months after the terrible three days of battle.   On those two days in November, Lincoln was a guest of David Wills in his house, where he completed his famous address.  It was a pleasure for E to meet up and take a look at that house – –

An encounter with Honest Abe just outside the Wills house.

The ‘crew’ in front of the historic house.

One more encounter with the President where he borrowed G’s Riff’s Music Cap.

 

It was almost time to get really serious and tour the battlefield.  But, before we could do that there was a lot of training on the Segway – our transportation for the tour.

Learning to master the Segway.

 

It was now time to tackle the outside world and begin the really serious part of our tour with Fran – a fantastic guide thru those three fateful days in July, 1863.

The grounds that WERE the battlefield have been restored and maintained much as they were in 1863 in order to provide an accurate picture of those three fateful days.  The fences, hills, rocks, cannon, and even the monuments provide an opportunity to reflect and make a feeble attempt to understand what happened here.  Even so, it is impossible to comprehend and to wrap ones arms around the fact that more men fell during this battle than in any other battle on American soil before or since.  What appear to be peaceful rolling fields pay silent tribute to this sacrifice.

Our guide, Fran, conveyed more information than we could possibly retain.

Cannons and memorials to State regiments are in actual battle places – the Pennsylvania Memorial is in the distance.

 

It is very hard to look at these wide open fields and imagine 1,000’s of men lined up just in front of us and then across the field.  Those across the field are marching toward us in  exposed lines and are being pelted with cannons and guns.  Just as the sun was setting on us at the end of our tour – the sun set on 50,000 men who would never know if they fought in vain.  We should never let their memory die, whether they fought for the North or the South.

A very moving discussion of Pickett’s Charge on the final day of the Battle of Gettysburg.

 

The time with our friends in York, PA was fun, silly, memorable, moving, tasty but most of all HAPPY;-)

E & G – grateful for friends and for our history – ALL of it!

Washington D. C.

WOW!  Our Capitol city really is magnificent.  AND – there is much too much to see in even a three or four day visit;-(  BUT – we did our best.

DC was G’s trip pick and, thankfully, he did a lot of prep for our visit.  A little tip to all who are thinking of visiting here:  DO contact your Congress people (Senators and Rep’s) to get access/tours of the White House and Capitol Building, including the two Chambers of Congress.  And – do this well in advance, as time is needed for background checks, etc.  G did his homework and we were in like Flint on all of these tours instead of standing on the other side of the fence wondering ‘how to get in there?’.

Hotels can be interesting, also.  Most within any kind of walking distance of ‘the sights’ run from $500 to $1000 a night!!  Clearly for all of those on expense accounts;-)  A Residence Inn in Greenbelt (northeast of DC) proved to be a great home base for 4 days.  MiniMagic found an electric plug to stay charged and we found the Metro (and Sr. Pass!). The routine became very simple – free hotel shuttle to the Metro station, hop on the Metro, which ran every 4-5 minutes, and ‘TaDa’ we were in the center of everything!

The Metro got us to and from DC each day.  (Think M2 enjoyed the time off.)

 

The White House – the oldest public building in the District of Columbia with the most famous address in the United States.  Every President except George Washington conducted the government of the nation here.  On October 13, 1792 the cornerstone of the White House was laid after a competition for design.  Although there have been rebuilds (after burning by the British in 1814), remodels and expansions, the basic structure is the same as one George would recognize today.  Somehow, despite our questionable pasts, a White House tour WAS on our agenda;-)

Congressman Schweikert’s office assisted with tickets to a tour to – THE WHITE HOUSE!

Our limo was lost – so we walked up to the Grand Dignitary Entrance – where we were received —

At the front door with Lafayette Park in the background.

The dance floor was not in place, but we ‘took a turn’ anyway in the very room where Princess Di and John Travolta had their famous dance.

Our impression of Lady Di and John Travolta;-)

After all the individual attention, it was time to meet up with our private tour group (ha ha!!) – –

– – anything but private!

The Blue Room is quite impressive – as it should be, since it is used to receive guests (such as us!!) and houses the White House Christmas tree.  The room is furnished to represent the period of James Monroe, who purchased pieces for the room after the fire of 1814.  The views from this room are stunning!

Original French chairs purchased by Monroe.

The Green Room (once served as Thomas Jefferson’s dining room and now used for receptions), the Red Room (used by John Adams as a breakfast room and now used for small receptions) the Library and China room were all on the tour.  Last but not least was the State Dining Room.  Quote on the fireplace “…May none but Honest and Wise Men ever rule under this Roof.”   Could we get some of those men again – please?!?!

The State Dining Room can seat 130 for dinner. Not sure how.

A lot of fun to be in the very rooms that one sees used in press conferences with other dignitaries or events at the White House.  The overall impression one leaves with is that this ‘building’ is quite impressive in its trappings but is much smaller in all of its rooms than one would expect or than they seem when seen on TV.

After this moving experience, a quick lunch was in order at the Old Ebbitt Grill, another historic landmark with very good food;-)  Then off the The Mall.

The Mall. The Capital in one direction – –

– – The Washington Monument in the other.

 

A very interesting, intriguing building appeared – maybe this should be checked out.  We had stumbled upon the newest museum in DC – the National Museum of African American History & Culture.  Luck was on our side as there was no waiting to enter this new museum that has required tickets due to its popularity.   Presented is a very impressive history of trade and slavery going back to the 1400’s and working forward to a Changing America from 1968 and beyond.  As is true of all the museums in DC, one could spend an entire day here.

The National Museum of African American Heritage and Culture – a most unique building.

 

Even though we were now on overload – one more stop.  The National Gallery of Art was created for the people of the US in 1937, accepting the unprecedented gift to the nation of financier and art collector Andrew Mellon!  Today it has grown into several buildings and gardens.  To give this museum its due, one could spend an entire day here.  Unfortunately, there was only an hour before closing – so hit the highlights including E’s favorite Renoir;-)

The National Museum of Art.

A Girl with a Watering Can by Renoir.  Isn’t she exquisite?!?!

 

Day one was the Executive branch of our government.  Day two included the Judicial and Legislative branches.  While picking up our Senate and House of Representatives gallery tickets, we learned that there were hourly tours of the Supreme Court.  We were off and running.

The Supreme Court Building opened in 1935.  Prior to this time the Court met in the Capitol building (to be seen later).  This “Temple of Justice” is both a work of art and a working office building – AND quite impressive.

On the steps of the majestic Supreme Court.

A Courtroom Lecture is given in the actual Courtroom where the members of The Supreme Court meet to hear arguments on the cases selected for hearing.  Quite awesome to sit in this impressive courtroom and think about all that has transpired here.  Unfortunately, NO pictures are to be taken in the room – so a quick snap as entering – –

A quick shot just before entering to get the gist.

 

Another inspiration is the Capitol set amidst 59 acres of winding paths, memorial trees and beautiful flowers that are changed seasonally.  The grounds today reflect a plan completed in 1892 by Olmsted.  The Capitol is home to our two legislative bodies, the House of Representatives and the Senate.  With careful planning, one can observe these two bodies at work (???) in their appropriate chamber, which we were able to do.  Unfortunately, there are NO pictures in these galleries and to be sure of that all phones, cameras, etc. are taken from you when entering the first of two security checks!

The visit to the Chambers was followed by a tour of the Capitol (again with careful planning!).  This included some of the behind the scenes areas one hears about – or perhaps sees in an interview of a Senator or Representative – such as the tunnels from the office buildings to the appropriate Chamber.

The Capitol – where we were taken on a tour by Molly from Rep. Schweikert’s office.

The tunnel from the Representative’s office to the Capitol.

Our first stop was the Rotunda with incredible art work, the Capitol Dome and The Apotheosis of George Washington – –

The Rotunda – jammed with people. 

The frieze in the dome – The Apotheosis of George Washington.

Two rooms of particular interest were the prior Senate Chamber and the prior Supreme Courtroom.  Both were quite impressive and close to ‘miniatures’ of the current versions.  The good news was that pictures could actually be taken here to get at least a flavor of the current.

The previous Chamber of the Senate.

Desks here are primarily repro’s as originals were taken by Sen. to new Chambers.

The previous Supreme Court.

 

Day three took us beyond the three branches of government to gardens and museums.  On the 59 acres of the Capitol grounds resides the US Botanic Gardens – one of the oldest botanic gardens in North America.  Established by Congress in 1820, and strengthened by collections from the US Exploring Expedition of Wyatt, the plantlife here is beautiful and educational.  And – there are three remaining plants still here from the original Wyatt exploration.  Another great tour by Bobbi gave wonderful information on the plants and their history.

Bobbi provided a great tour of the US Botanic Garden.

Just loved this orchid;-)

 

What would a trip to DC be without a visit to the National Air and Space Museum?  The 1903 Wright Flyer, The Spirit of St. Louis, Amelia Earhart’s Lockheed Vega and so much more of our air history!!

The Wright Brother’s airplane that not only flew but could be controlled!

 

Totally worn out and heads about to explode with information, we were off to the Metro station for one last trip to the hotel.

The US Navy Memorial on the way to the Metro.

 

One needs at least a week to do justice to our nation’s capital.  Our whirlwind tour was informative, historical and fabulous – BUT way too short.

Overwhelmed – E & G

Biaett & Byrne Cousins

Campus visits completed – we were back to family visits.  There was a TON of fun to be had with the Byrne family.  The time was short but couldn’t have been any better.  After a quick look at their new and improved home (which we loved), we were off to one of their favorite ‘exploring’ spots.  And George, Olivia and Samuel ran circles around us – –

Playing with the Byrne Five at Hunting Island.

Higher – Farther – Bouncier;-)!!

103 2019 05 08 Hunting Island005

Fortunately for us, Bethany hadn’t had enough of us – so we met for coffee the next morning.  She had a wonderful walk in store for us along the Cypress Wetlands with lots of wildlife, which we just managed to get in before the skies opened up.  (When the rains came, we sat in MiniMagic for a nice long chat.)

An anhinga (darter) with 4 young ones on display.

Yellow Crowned Night Heron checking us out.

Submerged gator looking for breakfast.

 

Cousins Betty and Vern were next up.  So, we headed up the I-95 to High Point, NC, where we checked out another Biaett abode, visited, caught up and wandered one more University campus – High Point University, where Dr. Biaett teaches;-)

High Point University with cousin Vern (that’s Dr. Biaett to his students).

The site of their graduation the previous day.

Vern’s place of business.

A brief visit with George Washington.

 

Our visit with Betty and Vern was brief, but much enjoyed;-)  On our way again – this time to cousins Jeanie and Dodge in Williamsburg, VA.  BUT (you probably know what is coming) first a nice lunch stop along the way.

A brief stop for lunch at a nice little park.

 

Another wonderful visit with lots of catching up.  We all had to celebrate again (just as we did with Julie & Mike), as Jeanie & Dodge also just celebrated their 50th anniversary.  So we got to celebrate our 25th again;-)  It was hard to get up the next morning after all the food we ate for dinner in Colonial Williamsburg – but we had to keep moving.  A little breakfast, a little more conversation and a little enjoyment of the views from their home and we were off again.

Early morning view from Dodge & Jeanie’s front yard.

Lovely stay in a lovely home with lovely cousins;-)

 

It is really wonderful to have such a terrific family – all of whom are so willing to share their time and entertain us as we wander about.  Our sincere gratitude to them all;-)!!

Grateful E & G on their way again.

A NP & Campuses between ‘Cousin’ Visits

Why central South Carolina?  A National Park not yet seen – Congaree.  Of course there was the obligatory lunch stop on the way.  MiniMagic found a nice little park under a very interesting bridge over the Brunswick River – –

Nice lunch spot.

 

Then, on to the main attraction.  Congaree NP is a land of towering trees in a floodplain forest, which like so many of our forests, was almost lost.  Thanks to efforts of Harry Hampton this 27,000 acres became the Congaree NP a recent as 1976.

 

It is possible that the Congaree River will overflow its banks several times a year.  When it does, its waters flow into this floodplain with moisture and nutrients that provide the ingredients for a unique ecosystem of plants and animals.  Especially the recipe for ‘champion trees’ (one that is judged to be the largest of its species and native or naturalized to the US).  A fabulous 2.4 mile boardwalk is provided to explore the park.

Wandering into the “swamp” full of Champion Trees.

The Bald Cypress that make Congaree home, have a broad base and complex root system to help hold them steady during the floods.  They also have little ‘shoots’ off their root system called ‘knees’.  The exact function of the knees is not known, but it is thought  they might be part of the stabilization system.

A plethora of cypress knees.

The level of the water when the Congaree River floods can be quite high and it can rise rapidly.  We would not want to be here at that time, as the moss on the trees marks that level and it is higher than G is tall!!

Yikes!!   Water levels higher than G’s 6’2″ frame.

Didn’t see a lot of wildlife (other than mosquitos!!) – but these guys were interesting – –

A young turtle alongside the larger parent.

The land within Congaree NP has a long and varied past going back to almost 10,000BCE. More recent inhabitants included slaves seeking shelter as they escaped during the Civil War, loggers in the late 1890’s (which almost decimated the forests), and bootleggers in the 1900’s.  Some of their stills remain – –

The remains of a prohibition era moonshine still.

 

Our adventure here wasn’t over.  This particular day just happened to be the first night of the Firefly Festival!  Well – this had to be checked out as they were claimed to ‘flicker’ in synchronization.  Believe it or not – they DID!!

Heading out in search of fireflies.

As you can see, our attempt to photograph the fireflies caught them when they were all off.

 

In the continuing effort to check out college/university campuses – the ‘other’ USC was in sight.  A beautiful campus right in the middle of Columbia, SC, with the Capital just adjacent to the campus.  The really FUN part about all our visits this weekend is that it was graduation.  So all the campuses were alive with the happy activities of students and their proud families;-)

The USC football stadium.

The central part of campus known as the Horseshoe.

All set up in the Horseshoe for the Law School commencement.

 

The South Carolina General Assembly created Columbia as the state’s capital city in 1786.  In 1790, the General Assembly first met in the new State House, designed by James Hoban, who later designed the White House.

The South Carolina State Capital with the statue of Strom Thurmond in the foreground.

The Trinity Episcopal Church was built in 1846.

 

OK – North Carolina needed equal time.  So, we were off to the University of NC in Chapel Hill.  Also a lovely campus with its central quad area and old unique buildings.

The South Bldg on the quad at UNC.

The beautiful old library undergoing renovation.

The Old Well on the campus is recognized as a National Landmark for Outstanding Landscape Architecture.  For many years, the old well was the sole water supply for the university.  In 1897, the original well was replaced with the present structure.  Campus tradition dictates that a drink from the Old Well on the first day of classes will bring good luck (or straight A’s!).  Perhaps all the graduates lined up for pictures took a sip on their first day of classes and DID get straight A’s;-)!!

Graduates, families and friends waiting to take a picture in front of The Old Well.

 

A great surprise waited for us in the Chapel Hill – Raleigh Durham area.  We got a 2-fer as Duke University is also located here.  Not to miss a campus, we were headed in that direction.  Although the rain was now really playing havoc with these graduation ceremonies.  AND – our arrival at Duke coincided with the arrival of all the graduation traffic.  Therefore, unfortunately, there was no walking tour of Duke – just a poor shot thru the rain soaked windshield.

The only shot of Duke;-(

It is really unfortunate that the weather did not hold for this campus visit, as it looked like a fantastic place to wander.  But – onward.

Travels through the Carolina’s would not be complete without a stop in Pinehurst.  Although this trip did not allow for a round of golf, a good lunch and a ‘shop-off’ in the Pro shop were in order.

The statue of Payne Stewart at Pinehurst.

 

A fun couple of days watching graduates and their families celebrate their accomplishments AND checking out one more NP;-)

Now – back to some of those Biaett cousins.

E & G off to see more Family