Welcome to Chefchaouen!  Founded in 1471 as a stronghold against the Portuguese, it takes its name from the mountains it is nestled in – ech-Chaoua (The Horns).  The distinctive blue color may have come with the Jews fleeing Spain in 1492, as they often painted buildings blue because the color mirrored the sky and reminded them of God.  There is not a lot of significant import here – but it is fun to walk the narrow, blue alleys of the town to see how many different ways blue can be used!!

Photo op (with traditional dress) entering the “Blue City”.

Lovely hotel for the evening – Dar Echaouen.

Great spot for tea in our room – with magnificent views of the town.

When the town was founded by Idrissid in 1471, he built a fortress in the center of the town of red earth and created a lovely garden in the middle of the walls.

One of ten towers of the Kasbah. The ground level of this building housed the jail.

That’s it for the history lesson.  Now just wander the town and enjoy the blue!

Five ladies of Chefchaouen.  Dress look familiar?!?

The final day in Morocco was spent with lots of fond memories and happy thoughts.  How could one not be happy with all this color?!?

E & G with a final glimpse of Morocco

Volubilis was founded in the 3rd century BC, but really became an important city in the province when the area was annexed by the Romans in 45AD.  During its heyday under the Romans, it was a very affluent city as can be seen by the forum and sophisticated townhouses paved with mosaics.  The site also features baths, oil presses, bakeries, aqueducts and shops.  All part of the everyday life.

The drive to Volubilis from Fes is about 3 hours if one stops to enjoy the fabulous scenery of green fields and wildflowers and boys on decorated donkeys!

Beautiful fields filled with crops and a dammed lake in the distance.

Loved all the purple flowers on the hillsides.

This enterprising youngster is looking to make a few bucks for a photo op with his trusty, festively decorated donkey.  Who could resist?

The destination is in sight.  Volubilis ruins from a distance.

Their equivalent of City Hall.

The Decumanus Maximus is the main road through the city running from the Tangier Gate to the Triumphal Arch.  The Triumphal Arch was erected in 217AD and stands 26’ high.  It was reconstructed in 1933, currently without the frieze and chariot drawn by 6 horses which were an original part of the arch.  It overlooks the fertile plantations of wheats and olive trees, emphasizing how important these crops were to the city.

The Arch of Caracalla, named in honor of a Roman General, with beautiful views.

Mosaic in the House of the Acrobat.

The forum, Basilica and Capitol were the major public buildings in the heart of the city.

Walls of the Forum with the market to the right.

Olive oil was extremely important to the commerce of the area.  There were public presses for all to use and private presses in the more affluent homes.  There were several steps to the processing of the olives – 1)first they were crushed in a cylindrical vat, 2)then the pulp was emptied into flat baskets that were stacked on top of each other, 3)then the stacked baskets were placed beneath planks of wood that squashed the baskets making the oil run out and into channels in the rock slabs.  The channels took the oil to purification tanks where water was added forcing the oil to the top.  It was then skimmed and poured into large earthenware pots for sale.  Fascinating!

Olive oil press.

Where the baskets were squashed and the oil ran into the grooves.

The House of Orpheus is the only large, upper class house located in the south neighborhood.  It is remarkable for its size and number of rooms it contains – large courtyard, reception room, oil press, bath suites and other private areas.  It derives its name from the large circular mosaic located in the main reception room which depicts Orpheus playing the lyre charming a lion, an elephant and many other animals.

The opulent main reception room, which would have had magnificent views.

History lesson engraved on the brain, it might be time for lunch.  Today’s BBQ would be in Zerhoun.  Funny sights getting there —

A city developed looking like a camel😂

A stroll and lunch in Zerhoun.

Good BBQ here under the red umbrellas.

Waiting in line for the WC?!?

Punctuated by a donkey brawl as we were leaving.

Today was a fun day with a little learning, a little history, a good lunch, beautiful scenery coming and going AND HILARIOUS DONKEYS!  If only the video could be posted😂😂😂

E & G – Only one day left in Morocco.

Fes is the oldest of Morocco’s imperial cities (there have been four!) and it is the spiritual and religious capital.  Therefore, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981.  The city was founded on the right bank of the River Fes in 789 by Idriss I.  Shortly after, his son built an establishment on the left bank.  In the mid-11th century, the two towns were finally united and mid-12th century Fes became this cultural and economic metropolis.  It was elevated to an Imperial capital in 1250, although only for a short time.

Fes is the location of the most venerated shrine in Morocco, the oldest continuously operated university in the world and a fabulous, wandering Medina and souks.  All to be explored shortly.

But, a bit of a repeat, as it was wonderful to have a nice, relaxing retreat at the end of daily explorations.  And Riad Fes, a Relais & Chateau property,  was just the place.  The redone Riad was beautiful, the service was superb and the food was elegant and tasty!  From the entry, to the main ‘lobby’ to the rooms and service areas, all were very inviting- – –

Welcome to Riad Fes.

Relax a spell.

With so much to see, one must hit the ground running.  So, off to the North Borj, where there is a view of the city much like that from the hotel roof top bar (which became a favorite spot to relax at the end of the day!).  Except from here, the South Borj across the city can be seen as well as the green hillsides to the east.

The South Borj sits across the city (just above the barren strip) and matches the North Borj.  Great security for the city!

Hard to believe there is so much green and farmland so close to such congestion.

Heading down into all that congestion – first stop is Fes El-Jedid or New Fes.  Built in 1276 as a stronghold, it was the administrative center of Morocco up until 1912.  Today, Fes El-Jedid consists of several distinct areas/districts – the royal palace, the mellah or Jewish quarter and the Muslim quarters.

The vast palatial complex of Dar el-Makhzen was the main residence of the sultan, together with his guards and servants.  Part of the palace is still used today by the king of Morocco when he stays in Fes.  The main entrance to the complex has a richly ornamented Moorish gateway with huge engraved bronze doors.  The walled grounds house the palace and various administrative and official offices as well as military buildings.

Main gateway to the Palace complex. Couldn’t get these things open no matter how hard we pushed!!

Beautiful plaza outside the gate.

The Mellah here is thought to be the first Jewish enclave in Morocco. (Many Jews escaped particularly from Spain during different times in history and settled in Morocco.) The rulers of Fes had undertaken to protect the Jewish community in return for an annual levy collected by the state treasury.  So the quarter was moved adjacent to the Palace to afford greater security.  The Jewish cemetery is a large part of the quarter today —

The Jewish cemetery.

After exploring New Fes, it is time to enter the walls of the old city via one of its many gates and wander the great old medina – a personal favorite of all the cities🙂  There is lots to see and observe from the Spanish architecture brought by the Jews from Spain, to the wandering, narrow alleyways and souks with all that is needed in the daily life.

Old walls of the center city.

The Blue Gate – one of many into the Medina and a short walk from our hotel.

Rare balconies looking very Spanish.

Very narrow alleyways.  E size NOT G size😂

Meat for tonight’s dinner.  Nothing on the hoof here, though.

A textile section with threads and yarns —

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All this wandering can build up an appetite.  Palais Tijani was just the quiet, relaxing, colorful restaurant that was needed.  Family owned with the cooking done by the mother – everything was delicious, but there was way too much food (as always)!

Great spot for lunch.

For some reason, colorful chairs caught my eye.

Now it was time to get serious.  Bou Inania Medersa is a very large, sumptuously decorated medersa constructed between 1350 and 1355 by the Sultan Abou Inan.  It is a mosque, school and students’ residence.  The fact that it has a minbar (pulpit) and minaret indicates that the sultan wanted this to be more than just a theological college – he wanted it to rival the most important mosque in the city.  While the plan of the building is simple – a square courtyard flanked by two halls and a large prayer hall – every surface is covered with decoration.  The floor is marble and the walls have three decorative bands always in the same order around the entire floor – geometric tile work below, script carved into tiles and then carved stucco work to the ceiling.  The ceiling is carved cedar wood and/or mosaics.

The students’ residences were upstairs and are as basic as the ground floor is opulent.  There were great views from what windows they had, though.

Our guide, Abdou, in the courtyard of the Medersa.

No bare walls here.

Views from upstairs in the student section.

Mineret at the Karaouiyine Mosque from the students quarters.

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Now to that most venerated shrine promised in the introduction.  The tomb of Moulay Idriss II (thought to be the founder of Fes) is that shrine.  It was built in the center of the city at the beginning of the 18th century.  It’s pyramid green dome that covers the tomb and its polychrome minaret give it a majestic silhouette and is quite noticeable in the skyline. Like the Medersa, every square inch is decorated.  Unfortunately, this is closed to non-Muslims but photos from the door are allowed.

The richly decorated walls can be seen even from the doorway.

The oldest continually operating university in the world (established in 859) is just around the corner – the Karaouiyine Mosque.  It was founded by Fatima bint Mohammed el-Fihri, a religious WOMAN who donated her worldly riches for its construction.  Its prayer hall can hold up to 20,000 people but it is so wedged into the Medina it is impossible to tell its size.  And, since it is a mosque, it is closed to non-Muslims so a picture of the doors and a very little glimpse of the interior is all one gets😢

Had to be quick with the shutter finger even for this glimpse.

All the mosques were quite stunning.

Leaving the serious behind, it is now time for lessons of another kind.  In Fes one can learn to make pottery, mosaic tables and fountains, weave rugs, tan and dye leather and make bread!  Let’s go —

Not the Trevi fountain, but the same make a wish concept.  Going to need all the luck I can get to make all the stuff coming up!

Making the pot for a tajine.

The light purple dye turns blue when heated in the kiln.

The detailed hammering and chiseling to create these very small shapes was amazing.

This mosaic fountain is assembled upside down.

Finished product.  Fountains on the left.

Rug weaving loom and artist.

Lots of choices.

Vats at the leather tannery.  Upper left white vats are pigeon s&$@t to ‘strip’ the hides of hair, etc.

The workers are paid on a piece work basis.

Drying hides.

More buying opportunities of all things leather.

Neighborhood oven in the medina. Residents bring their dough to be baked in the ovens.

One last stop before the days end and dinner.  Overlooking the city are old ruins from the 14th century, which again had great views of the Medina.

Strategically placed “mobile Starbucks”.  These WERE the Starbucks in Morocco😂😂!!

Old ruins on the hilltop overlooking Fes.

The green minaret is the Bou Inania Medersa, the green dome top is the tomb of Moulay Idriss and the white minaret is the oldest university!

All of this can wear one out, so a nice dinner is called for at Riad Kassr Annoujoum.  The Riad was purchased by an Italian and in conjunction with Morocco refurbished the facility.  It now provides cultural events, such as the concert during dinner this evening.

Beautiful setting for a delicious Italian dinner.

E’s turn for boatdrinks!

Good live music.

Our dinner companion;-)

And so ends another day.  Lots of interesting sights, exchanges of knowledge and good food.

An overwhelmed E & G

If one wants to fulfill their dream of the camel ride in the desert and stay at a tent camp, then one also needs to be prepared for the comings and goings.  As, it is a full days drive in both directions – unless there is the means to fly to and fro.  These travelers endured the full days drive;-)

The advantage to the drive is the ability to see the varied terrain of Morocco – and it is varied!  Beginning the morning with nothing but sand as far as the eye could see, it was not long at all before we were in the Middle Atlas and viewing the Ziz Valley.  Wadi (River) Ziz springs in the heart of the High Atlas and runs east carving a gorge that irrigates the Tafilalt then disappears into the Saharan sands.  This beautiful gorge, or valley, covered with palm trees and crops is the largest valley in North Africa!  Now it is green as far as the eye can see.

Beautiful, long valley.

Filled with palms, crops and ksour.

A little further on, one passes thru the small town of Midelt.  There is little here of note other than its use as a jumping off point for tours to access other areas.   That is until apple season.  Midelt is a huge producer of apples and, therefore, has a BIG apple festival every year.  You might guess something like this passing through town —

Do you prefer red – –

– – or green apples???

This route to Fes takes one up and across the Atlas Mts through more varied terrain.  Including a cedar forrest – with monkeys.  It is at this point that one just relaxes and enjoys the scenery.

Just loved these hay wagons. Made us laugh every time one went by;-)

Lions were prevalent in the Atlas Mts (now extinct here) and are in the Royal Coat of Arms – so they are everywhere!

If you have food – look out – – –

– – these little guys will climb anywhere to get it!

Another surprise – Ifrane!!  Suddenly this Swiss village appears and one literally feels as though they have been transported to another country;-).   Ifrane was established in 1929 and is now the King’s summer residence, due to the cool temperatures.  It is also the home to an international university established by Hassan II in 1995 and a ski area in the winter!

Swiss chalets in Morocco???

A great place to enjoy the very different views and a little hot chocolate and espresso.

One more stint in the car and Fes comes into sight.  The obligatory welcome – only this time a bit western with the sparkling wine – and an evening’s enjoyment of settling in for a few days.

The beautiful Riad Fes – home for a few days.

Fes from the rooftop.

Comfort!

What fun the Sahara desert was – but civilization is good too;-)

More from Fes next – E & G

Rissani.  This small town on the edge of the Sahara literally marks the end of the tarred road and starts tracks into the desert.  This was once a major stopping point on the trans-Saharan caravan routes.  It still today has one of the most famous souks in Morocco – some would say the best in all of Morocco. Stalls are piled high with dates, vegetables, spices or jewelry, daggers, carpets, pottery and fine leathers.  One can also get their protein/meats butchered or on the hoof!

Entering the Souks of Rissani

Need help for your thinning hair?

Want your meet butchered- –

Or alive?

Some of the old still exists – no matter the sex, one stands to pee (or whatever).

The Sahara desert, much like that in the southwest, was once underwater.  Therefore much of the rock in the surrounding area contains fossils from that time resulting in another of Erfoud’s current industries.  The rock, or marble, is cut, polished and made into beautiful pieces from ornaments to tables.  Workshops are open to observe the process – and, of course, purchase.  The work is beautiful and prices unbelievable compared to US prices.  Come here to Sahara Stone if you want to redo your home with fantastic pieces😄

The beginning of the creation of artisan products from fossilized stone – cutting the slabs.

Stunning table! Thank goodness we have no room or this would be on its way to AZ!

As Rissani was once the capital of the area and an important trade center, it also housed many Ksour.  A visit to one built for the elder brother of Sultan Moulay Hassan provides one with the ability to experience a village within walls that once housed hundreds.  Today, the gate is still impressive.  But, inside it appears a bit dilapidated although it still houses about 150 families.

The gate belies what’s inside.

One families entrance.

From one extreme to another – a mere couple of miles away is the Mausoleum of Moulay Ali Cherif, the father of the founder of an early Moroccan dynasty.  Beautifully carved doors open to a peaceful courtyard which lead to the burial chamber.

Entrance to the mausoleum of Moulay Ali Cherif.

Main hall of the mosque at the mausoleum.

And now – as said before, one leaves the world behind and enters the desert!  Somewhere out there our driver for the Sahara found a place to have lunch of Berber pizza (which was delicious) and entertain us with music!

Our lunch stop en route to a musical interlude.

Don’t remember seeing one of these at the Moroccan exhibit at MIM.

If you come this way – find this place. Excellent music!

These guys were great.

Now – our lives were in Hassan’s hands!  Hoped he knew how to get where we were supposed to end up, as the travel was across the sand.  NO roads.  Relax and enjoy the trip – including a stop at the “home” of some nomads, who provided tea!  A most welcoming people no matter what they have.

Driving across the desert.

Rush hour!

Thank goodness! Something that looks like a road.

Dining and sleeping area of a nomad family.

Oven tent.

Kitchen.

Their livestock.

Our midday tea under the camel skin covering.

Our hostess.

One slight diversion to see rocks containing those fossils that might later become a table –

The prevalence of these rocks with the fossils was amazing.

Remember the Las Vegas hotel in Erfoud?  Well, same owners are building this behemoth close to the dunes🫣😢

New hotel construction near our desert camp in Merzouga.

Finally, out of the sand pops up Auberge du Sud.  But, for us this is only a mirage.  As this is the hotel and we are staying at the tent camp.  So – the welcome tea and a brief respite by the pool until time for transportation to the camp and the pleasure of the sunset over the dunes!

Reception area for the desert camp.

Welcome tea and snacks.

Relax by the pool with sand dunes just beyond.

And now –  transportation to the tent camp.

Locals call these sand snakes. They are a variety of salamander that burrows in the sand.

Waiting for sunset.

Perhaps a moon rise instead?!?

The colors of the sand changed minute by minute! Beautiful.

Embracing the sunset🙂

There it is.

Our accommodations for the night.

This was soooo much fun!!

And then – Morning light.

The magnificent dining area for dinner and breakfast.

Time to say good-bye to camels in the desert.

This magical time was over and paved roads were in front of us.  But, these beautiful images will remain in the mind forever!

E & G – Experienced a lifetime of thoughts and images and the reality was awesome!

Kharkiv’s El Kabbaba in Skoura was a wonderful, serene existence that should have been enjoyed more and would have been savored on a larger scale if we had only known what was in store at the next stop – Erfoud!!

Hold on to this picture. It will be desired the next morning;-(

Exquisite little Ksar.

A few hours drive will bring one to the entry point of Dades Gorge, created by the Wadi Dades.  The land on the banks of the wadi is planted with many crops such as onions, alfalfa and wheat and is also surrounded by fig, almond and walnut trees.  A beautiful hike with guides will take one through these fertile grounds where harvesting can be observed as well as other daily chores.  Perhaps a beautiful, cool pool can also be found.

Is there a guide available?

Crossing the wadi – AND, this log is much higher off the water than it looks🫣

The poppies were beautiful!

This canyon was quite picturesque.

It took two guides to get us here!

A village woman harvesting some of her crops.

More chores.

A local doing the laundry! (Not appropriate to take the faces – so you get this shot.)

Typical football field here – all sand.

A feature of the rock formations in this area, is that erosion and pressure have pressed the rocks together so that they look like fingers —

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After all this hiking a lunch is in order.  The owner of the store across the street and the lunch spot is know for her kefta – basically meatballs.  Today ground chicken was used and it was delicious in a very scenic setting.  Even here, we had Moroccan tea (as you can see the little tea pot).

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Still several hours to Erfoud, it was time to hit the road again.  Instead of the deer or cattle crossing signs in the US – here one is more likely to see camel crossing signs – and maybe even the camels —

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Another fascination along this route is lots of what looks like very large ant hills!  These are access points to underground channels known as khettaras, which carry water from wells to the oases.  This is an ancient and ingenious network, some covering considerable distances, brought here by the Syrians.

Access points to the khettaras.

Under one of those access points. These tunnels go on forever!

Aren’t these little guys cute – with our guide for the two weeks.

A bit further and Erfoud pops up on the horizon.  Before the 1930’s, the French set up a military post here attempting to watch over the Amazigh tribes, who put up the longest resistance to surrender. It is now the jumping off point for tours of the dunes of the Erg Chebbi desert and stays at the desert camps.  It also, apparently, is the starting point for different desert races and rallies – as we were about to find out!!!

Kasbah Xaluca is HUGE and a bit like a Las Vegas convention hotel😂 – in the middle of nowhere!  It seems that the Rallye Aicha des Gazelles was to begin the next day and hundreds of competitors and all the support staff was being housed here.  You might be able to decipher from the name that this is a race of many types of vehicles ALL DRIVEN BY WOMEN!  Quite an interesting evening after the serenity of Skoura.

All types of vehicles lined up —-

Lots of haulers.

At least the room was quiet – thank goodness.

Another fascinating day – BUT real fascination tomorrow as we head to the desert camp😄

E & G – In for more fun!

Wanting to experience the High Atlas Mountains in Morocco (perhaps to compare them to the Rockies and Park City) the car headed 1 1/2 hours south from Marrakech to Imlil.  The Atlas Mountain range stretches across Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco with its highest peak in Morocco at 13,671′ – Mount Toubkal.  The destination of Imlil sits at the foot of Mt. Toubkal and is a starting point for trekking expeditions.

The drive to Imlil is like the drive to any other mountain town – through the valleys between the peaks with the obligatory mountain stream alongside the road.  However, most roads in the US are not as narrow and many times unpaved due to washouts and generally scary!!  Very glad to have a driver to maneuver.

Beautiful scenery kept our eyes off the road;-(

One arrives at the small mountain village of Imlil at the head of the Ait Mizane Valley after navigating through the Ait Bouguemez Valley.  Most people come here to tackle Jbel Toubkal – we would be tackling a 2 mile hike to an adjacent village for lunch!  But, first one must get to accommodations.

A great suggestion here is Kasbah du Toubkal – an imposing fort (Kasbah) on the slopes below the peak.  “Check-in” at the village reception in town in order to get a mule to carry your luggage and to be sure the gate is unlocked when you arrive.  Then – start your trek – –

Our guide, Abdou, checking in for us.

Yep – those are our bags;-)

Lots of color and buying opportunities to distract one from the climb!

First sighting of the Kasbah – on the left through the trees.

About to see what is behind this gate.

As the sign indicates – this complex was resurrected from the Kasbah of old and completed in 1995.  However, a good portion was destroyed in the earthquake less than a year ago.  The dining room and some guest rooms are gone so a terrace is used as a makeshift dining room and the guest rooms that have been restored are now available.  Tourism is basically the only source of income to this area, so getting any portion usable again was very important.

The beautiful grounds inside with the dining area on the right upstairs with the windows.

The remains of the dining room. Thankfully when the earthquake occurred everyone had just finished dinner and left.

Photos of earthquake cleanup activities on sight.

It is possible to arrange to take a short hike to an adjacent village and have lunch prepared by a Berber woman (a local of the area) and be a guest in her home.  This is an excellent thing to do in order to understand how these families live, how difficult their lives are and to appreciate every little thing one has in the US!!!!  It also helps to understand how significant tourism is for these people and how much the earthquake hurt them without it.  The tale here and the pictures will not begin to tell the story.

Off we go on a good, sturdy walk through the ‘forest’.  This is actually groves of various types of trees and terraced land that produce goods for food or for sale.  The trees are walnut, apple, quince, olives and cherries to name a few.  The crops include wheat, various spices, onions, asparagus and many others.

A rather narrow trail above the terraced crop areas and water duct.

A view of the village where lunch will be prepared and served.

Just to the right of the aluminum roof below the laundry is a tiny dark slit of a window behind the fan unit. That is the destination!

Through the village.

The home of the visit.

Upon arrival, guests meet the hostess and are escorted into a lovely little area set up for eating.  Of course, you are welcomed with Moroccan tea and appetizers.  Although the hostess does not join, she does a wonderful job of preparation including making the fresh bread.  This she invites us for a demonstration.

The very festive eating area.

Our hostess making fresh bread placing the dough around the walls of the ‘oven’.

The making of this bread – in this traditional manner – is NOT done just for us.  The women in this and surrounding villages do this daily making enough for their family for all three meals every morning.  It is done in these ‘ovens’ with wood fires as electricity is too expensive.  Almost all cooking is done with similar fires – as all tajines, etc.

A beautiful, delicious lunch with that fabulous warm bread’-)

After filling the stomach, it is time to head back to the Kasbah.  Beware – our guide did not want us to be bored with the same path back so he made us into goats;-)

Treacherous but beautiful!

If you haven’t had enough walking yet for the day, head up to the waterfall just beyond the Kasbah.  This is only about ten minutes of flat walking and is really quite fun;-)

Several restaurants are adjacent to enjoy the falls.

Morning comes and the sun just begins to light up the peaks of Mt. Toubkal.  So – one last look, breakfast and the hike down to Imlil.  As another day means much more to see on the way to the desert camp a couple of days away.

The view from our room. Goodbye!

Next stop is Skoura, a sleepy little town surrounded by a palm grove.  But in order to get there, one must go over the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass.  At an altitude of 7,400′ it is the highest road pass in Morocco and goes from one side of the Atlas Mts to the other.  And, from fertile valleys to sandy desert.

Scary road. Built by the French in the 1920’s.

Awesome little lunch spot with the cyclists and bikers!

Coming out of the High Atlas area into the southern oases, one travels the Route of 1,000 Kasbahs.  One of the most striking and best preserved in the country is Ait Ben Haddou.  It is reached on foot from the newer village on the opposite bank of the river by crossing a well constructed bridge and then climbing LOTS of stairs through the ksar.  The ksar was once heavily fortified and inhabited by hundreds but now houses fewer than 10 families.  It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site but is best known for its appearances in many films including Game of Thrones, Gladiator and The Mummy.

Ait Ben Haddou!

Yep! We are going up to the top where the grain and food was stored.

A view from the top – the defense of the ksar.

Continuing along the Road of Kasbahs, the place of refuge for the night in Skoura is finally reached.  The Ksar el Kabbaba was truly a welcome, peaceful retreat for the afternoon and evening.  Beautiful surrounding gardens (in which breakfast may be eaten), exquisite rooms, delicious food (with alcohol if desired) and a magnificent spa.  But first – – you guessed it, welcoming tea – –

Very welcoming room.

Peaceful grounds.

While this would make a restful stop for a few days, one night is all that is on the agenda.  Next up is Erfoud and the entry point to the desert camp.

E & G with continuing new adventures

You know the old saying – “Don’t judge a book by its cover”?  Well, Morocco is a GREAT example of this!

So many friends and various sources said – “when in Marrakech, one must eat at Dar Yacout”.  So, with reservation in hand, the car started in that direction.  All the while wondering where in the world are we being taken??  Literally, down a dark alley where a typically dressed Moroccan was waiting to be the escort into another world –

Yes – this is the place even with very nice linen engraved napkins await.

The destination is an old riad that has been beautifully redone – all the way to the rooftop bar which overlooks Marrakech.  This is the first stop for the evening to relax and enjoy a drink with a view.  Don’t hurry!  You will be escorted to your table – covered in flower pedals – when the time is right.

Beautiful night – beautiful views!

No need for menus – it is a 5 course (with extras) set meal.  Each course is ceremoniously presented in a large, decorative tajine looking piece by a very happy server.

Course 1 – salads

Course 2 – chicken tajine

Courses 3 & 4 – lamb tajine and couscous with vegetables.

Course 5 – HUGE pastilla! And, VERY delicious.

Made it through all 5 courses with a smile and ready for tea, only to be brought Moroccan sweets with the tea;-)

Finally done with this exquisite evening.  The food, service and atmosphere were all superb!  Oh – forgot to mention, there was also fantastic, live background music throughout the evening.  AND – all this for the dollar equivalent of $70 per person.  You read right.  A fantastic evening at an incredible value.  Don’t miss it if you are ever in Marrakech;-)

In case the above dinner doesn’t intrigue you – perhaps a cooking class with Fatima at Chef Tarik’s would.  Again – don’t judge the book by the cover as we were driven to the middle of nowhere and stopped at this gate.  Once through, we were in another oasis.

Are you sure we are in the right place?!?!

As is typical, the first stop was a welcome with Moroccan tea.  Only this time you learn how to make it and how to ‘salute’ but with the Moroccan “bessaha” – –

The chef and her assistant teaching how to make the traditional Moroccan tea.

The menu for the class is very similar to the dinner had at Dar Yacout.  First salads, then chicken and lamb tajines and couscous.  All in a couple of hours!  But first, one needs to know and understand all the spices that are used in these dishes.  And, there are many – –

Beautifully presented.

The lamb tajine is started first, as it takes the longest to ‘simmer’.  It is followed by the chicken tajine and then the couscous.  (Notice all the cooked dishes are done over charcoal fires.  This is done in the homes also, as electricity is very expensive. We’ll experience this at the next stop.) In between, the carrot and zucchini salads are prepared even leaving time for a tour of the grounds.

Chef Gary with the lamb tajine.

Chef Elizabeth with the chicken tajine.

The tomato rose from the tomato skin (made by Elizabeth!).

Bread preparation in the wood oven (not done by us thank goodness).

All of the food having been prepared and cooking, there was a tour of the facilities.  As said in the beginning, this was an oasis beyond the gate in the middle of nowhere;-). This setting was just completed and moved into a few weeks prior to this visit.  The move was to accommodate larger tour groups.  Today was perfect, as there were no other groups – so the chef was all ours!

Fabulous setting.

They also raise much of what is used in the cooking.

Now, time to enjoy the fruits of the labor.  The two tajines, couscous and the two salads (notice the tomato roses atop the salads).  The chefs can be very proud of themselves as all was delicious!  Oh – and not to worry – there was delicious dessert that we did NOT have to make.  Just enjoyed;-)

Bessaha!

Our teacher – Chef Fatima at Chef Tarik Cooking School.

This was another wonderful experience.  If one has enough days to take a morning and visit the Chef Tarik Cooking School to learn traditional Moroccan cooking and enjoy the lunch it is well worth it.  Enjoy!

Just a few additional spots to visit after all the food.  Off to Dar el Bacha Musee.  This lavish palace was the home of the governor of Marrakech from the early to mid-1900’s and was renovated in 2017 to house a museum.  A drawing card here (besides the beautiful artisan work) is Bacha Coffee.  Check it out.

Superb tile work.

One more stop for the music fans – The Museum of Music.  A small but informative display of African instruments and three nights a week there is a live performance – –

Three very full days in Marrakech – but a lot was seen and done – AND EATEN!  Marrakech should not be judged by its cover.  Really dig in and explore and enjoy.

E & G – Having enjoyed Marrakech moving to the High Atlas Mountains

Would you know we’re riding on the Marrakesh Express?  They’re taking me to Marrakesh – All aboard the train, all aboard the train!

In this case – Youssef (our driver) is taking us south from Casablanca to Marrakesh!  Upon arrival at one’s riad, one is escorted to a very calming scene for the traditional Moroccan tea and sweets.  Relax and chill – nothing will happen fast and when the tea is done your bags will be in your room;-)

Welcome to the Riad AlMaha.

Enjoy the calm and tranquility – and our room, the last on the right.

A good three days here might allow one to fully understand Morocco and the many parts to any of its cities/towns.  Each of these parts is on steroids in Marrakech!  There are the souks (shopping areas) within the walled medinas (old protected city centers), as well as mosques, plazas and riads (traditional townhouses now turned into boutique hotels) with plenty of opportunities to experience the architecture, amazing food and mint tea!

With all of this to see and do, one must hit the ground running.

First stop is the Koutoubia Mosque (No. 1 thing to do in Marrakech) with a minaret that dominates the skyline due to legislation that no building should rise above its height, which makes it a very good landmark for visitors.  This Mosque was built during the 12th century when a new sultan came to power and destroyed the 11th century sultan’s mosque (on the same spot) claiming it was not oriented properly to Mecca!! It was built to be the largest in the western Muslim world and remains the largest in Marrakech.

Approaching the Mosque de la Koutoubia.

Manuscripts souk once took place around the mosque thus giving it the name – “Booksellers’ Mosque”.

One thing to be wary of if traveling in a Muslim country is the timing of Ramadan.  The first few days of this visit were at the very end of Ramadan when the fast was broken, which is a VERY big holiday for Muslim’s (our Christmas and the way Easter used to be added together).  Therefore, for two days there was little open, including all the souks in the main shopping area.  This also spilled over to restaurants – but, we did not go hungry.  Just had to deal with more crowds than usual at the few places open – –

Our lunch spot in the old Medina. Lucky to find a little shade as temps also getting HOT in April.

With stomachs happy, it’s off to the Mellah – the former Jewish quarter of Marrakech.  It was the largest mellah in Morocco, accommodating approximately 16,000 inhabitants, as many Jews escaped to Morocco during the Spanish inquisition in the late 1400’s and again during WWII.  The LaAzama Synagogue (Synagogue of Deportees) was built by those Jews expelled by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand in 1492 and headed by its founder – Rabbi Yitzhak Daloya.

Synagogue LaAzama.

Next up Palais Bahia.  This palace was built by two sultans – father and son.  The father began building it for his wife, but unfortunately died before the palace was completed.  So – the son took his father’s wife as one of his main wives and named it for her “Palais Bahia” – Palace of the Favourite or Beautiful.  The best craftsmen in the kingdom were hired to build and decorate this palace using the best marble, cedar and tiles.  It has several beautiful courtyards with trees and flowers and a plainer one for the concubines – –

One of several open air squares in the Bahia Palace complex.

Now – perhaps the most beautiful, calm and serene place in all of Marrakech – The Majorelle Garden (No. 5 of must sees – although much higher in my book!).  In 1923, Jacques Majorelle, an expatriate French painter, fell in love with Morocco and built himself a villa surrounded by beautiful gardens and included his studio.  After his death the property fell into disrepair until Yves Saint-Laurent bought and restored the property in 1980.  The garden is home to over 400 varieties of palm trees and 1,800 species of cactus (we felt right at home!).  Little did we know, Majorelle blue was the color of the day;-)

The Jardin Marjorelle was beautiful, shady and cool.

Beautiful ponds —–

.——– with Lilly pads covered with frogs —-

—–and beautiful gazebos.

The blue and yellow color scheme filled the gardens.

Just loved these little guys;-)

The Berber art and antiquities in the museum were awesome.

Even the exit from the cafe (where tea and crepes can be enjoyed) was exquisite!

It is very difficult to leave the gardens, as they are so peaceful.  But, one must continue to work their way through the top 5 things to see and do in Marrakech!  So, headed to No. 4, the Ben Youssef Medersa.

This Medersa (school) was originally built in the 14th century, was once the largest Islamic school in North Africa and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It was expanded in the 16th century, abandoned and fell into disrepair in the 18th century and restored in the 19th century.  It is an incredible example of Moroccan architecture with the building made of red sandstone and decorated with intricate tile patterns and stunning carved stucco/plaster!  The detail is unbelievable – –

The Madressa Ben Youssef carved cedar, and stucco and the mosaic tile work were beautiful.

Another day – another lunch.  This little cafe was just the ticket today with a spot on the rooftop and very decorative chairs;-)

Lunch break.

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Two days have now been spent wandering the Jemaa el-Fna (must see No. 2), the square that is the nerve center of Marrakech and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Surrounding Jemaa el-Fna is a maze of Souks (trade stalls and No. 3 must see), where a wide range of goods are offered.  You can find everything here from olives, spices and fruit to leather and metal goods and everything in between.

Olive vendor.

Spices, dyes and yarns.

Your basic Moroccan shoe store.

Fruits and vegetable stands galore.

Whew!  In a day and a half the 5 must sees have been experienced plus several more and lots of food has been eaten.  More to come –

E & G working our way thru Marrakech

The Moroccan adventure begins here – in Casablanca.  This small settlement named Anfa (‘hill’ in English) in the 7th century grew to a major trade center in Morocco during the 20th century.  This was due to the vision of the first resident-governor (as a French protectorate), who set about developing the port and adopted the Spanish name Casablanca (white house).  In fact – this name may have had a significant effect on world events because in January, 1943, FDR and Winston Churchill met in Casablanca to determine the date of the allied landings in Normandy.  The Germans got wind of the meeting but translated “Casablanca” to “the White House” and believed the meeting was in Washington, D.C. and never stopped the meeting!

But, back to the future.  One’s thoughts of the land around Casablanca might be of sand dunes and camels.  However, approaching the city from the air gives the feeling of flying over the California central valley where agriculture is a major industry —

The green of patchwork farmland.

Having landed and ventured into the city, Casablanca is like any other large city – LOTS of traffic!  That’s where the refuge of a riad (hotel) comes into play.  LeDoge is just that boutique hotel in a 1930’s townhouse that makes each guest feel quite special.

The lovely LeDoge Hotel

It was discovered that the journeys in Morocco always begin with a welcome Morocco tea and sweets.  Don’t plan to hurry in, get your key and settle into your room.  That is NOT the way it works.  The luggage is left at the desk as you are escorted to a very pleasant seating area to relax and enjoy the tea – and these items do NOT come quickly.  They give you time to relax from your journey and unwind.  Shortly, the tea will come.  While you are enjoying, your things will be taken to your room – waiting for you when you finally arrive;-)

Chill!!!  Enjoy the tea and sweets.

There are two things Casablanca is known for.  One a bit silly and the other quite serious – Rick’s Cafe, from the movie Casablanca, and the Hassan II Mosque.

First, Rick’s Cafe.  As a real fan of the movie Casablanca, it is watched annually.  And, even though the movie was shot on a California set in its entirety, with no one involved in the movie having ever set foot in Casablanca, Rick’s Cafe was a must see – and very nice dining experience.  The food and service were wonderful and wouldn’t have been missed for anything!!

Of course, dinner at Rick’s Cafe was a must. Bogart and Bergman were nowhere in sight;-(

Now – for the serious.  The number 1 attraction in Casablanca is the Hassan II Mosque – the only mosque in Morocco that can be entered by a non-Muslim.  The late king, Hassan II, wanted to create and leave something for the people of Morocco that would incorporate the religion, Moroccan architecture and the talents of the Moroccan Artisan.  The result is a magnificent structure designed by the French architect Pinseau and various Moroccan artisanal bodies.  It took 7 years to build and 35,000 craftsmen who worked with marble, iron, stucco and tile mosaics.  It blends traditional Moorish architecture with 20th century innovation such as the sliding roof and glass floor through which the Atlantic Ocean can be seen.  The results are stunning!

The minaret soars 656 ft above the ocean, reportedly making the mosque the tallest religious building in the world.  The highlight inside is the vast prayer hall.  Every surface is covered with exquisite decoration from patterned marble floors, intricate tiling, carved stucco work and carved wooden ceilings.  Even the chandelier lights are from Murano, Italy.

The Hassan II Mosque was spectacular with its soaring minaret.

Before a Muslim enters the Mosque for prayers, they must ‘wash’ in the ablution area.  The washing follows a ritual washing the hands, face and feet reciting prayers as this is done.  Of course, the men and women do this separately.

The ablution area for men.

Even here, the marble and mosaic work was beautiful.

After ablution, one proceeds upstairs for prayers.

The main prayer hall looking toward the minbar (pulpit) and niche with its cedar wood ceiling.

One of several titanium doors in the Mosque.

The detail – and apparent softness – of the carved stucco atop the marble columns was a stark contrast!

More detail of the marble, mosaic work and the carved stucco.

Examples of the many types of ornamentation.

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This visit to Casablanca was everything hoped for.  Time to move on.  We will NOT be riding on the Marrakech Express to get us to Marrakech – but that is the next stop.

Climb Aboard – E & G on the go