Before We Say Goodby to Denmark – –

Denmark is the birthplace of the Vikings, and their legacy is everywhere. Two more stops are on the itinerary before we say goodby to them.

First up is the sunny little island of Bornholm in the Baltic. The Vikings landed here a millennium ago and their legacy is still here. That good old book – “1,000 Places to see Before You Die” – suggests you see/do four things here and you can accomplish that in a morning. So – lets go.

Very distinct sights on the island are its whitewashed 12th century rundkirkem, or round churches. They are capped with ink-black conical roofs and are quite a vision throughout the rolling green countryside. Well maintained grave sites are also part of the grounds around the church, creating a beautiful, serene parklike atmosphere. It is said that they also contain wonderful frescos – unable to be seen on this visit, as it was Sunday and the churches were closed for worship.

One of four historic medieval churches on Bornholm.
Very well maintained.
Sculpted cemetery gardens.

Next up the little village of Gudhjem (God’s Home). This is Bornholm’s best preserved fishing village with winding cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses and a spinning windmill. Its claim to fame is smoked fish and you can see the chimneys of the smoking ovens everywhere!

Must be smoking herring in there, a large part of the islands economy.
Hundreds of cairns built by visitors and locals to the small village of Gudhjem.
The all important ‘little’ port for the fishing village.

Number three is castle Hammershus Slot. This is the remains of the 13th century clifftop castle, the largest such remains in Northern Europe. Leading to the Hammershus castle is a well-preserved fortified bridge spanning a 20′ deep ravine, which previously would have had a wooden drawbridge. When one climbs to the top of the ruins it is evident why this position was sought after for protection. The views show activity in all directions.

The fortified bridge leading to the Hammershus Fortress.
View from the fort’s location with a broad defensive view of the sea.

OK – the fourth must do is sample the local specialty of “Sun over Gudhjem”, which is smoked herring on dark bread topped with a raw egg and raw onions washed down with a chilled Tuborg. And yes – this finicky writer tried it all!!!

They were nice enough to leave the raw egg on the side:-)

Having had a “fill” of Bornholm, it was time to move on to Aarhus, where the Danish royals summer. Founded in the 10th century as a Viking settlement, today it is a vibrant university town. And – Danish design and architecture are on full display when cruising into the harbor – –

Great views entering the Aarhus harbor.
Aarhus Public Library.

The Aarhus Domkirke (cathedral) in the center of town dates to the 12th century. It is dedicated to St. Clemens, the patron saint of sailors, and contains that obligatory ship in the sanctuary. It also contains unique painted – not stained – glass windows behind the altar.

In the foreground is Toldboden — the former Aarhus Royal Customs House with the steeple of Aarhus Cathedral rising above it.
The Aarhus Cathedral.
More organs!
Aarhus Cathedral describes the ship as symbolizing a person’s voyage from cradle to grave.
Stunning ceilings.
The chapel’s 2023 installation, by Danish artist Peter Brandes, includes the suspended Lazarus sculpture, the three vividly colored glass windows, baptismal font and alter.
The Hotel Royal, built in 1838, is said to be the oldest hotel in Aarhus.

Den Gamle By (the Old Town) is an open-air museum of 75 traditional half-timbered houses dating from the 17th to the 19th centuries. The houses were disassembled at their original locations and reconstructed on the ‘museum’ site. This was a bit of a contrived, Disneylandesque experience and could have been done without;-( But, it was a nice day and provided a nice walk.

The reconstructed “Old Town” sits amidst the modern buildings of the city.
Built in 1683, this was the home of the Royal Mintmaster.

There are always those fun sights in the walk about town –

The center of the city’s manhole cover is a version of the historic coat of arms of Aarhus derived from the city’s medieval seal dating to about 1250.
Well said, Coco!

Then there is the educational sight, which one has to ask AI about as it just looks weird! This ship is a ‘jack-up vessel’, as it can lower the four tallest towers to the seabed in order to raise the ship and create a stable platform. Then the cranes can lift the windmill pieces (seen on the far left of the ship) into place to build the off-shore wind farms.

One can find the most interesting sights in a city’s harbor.

One last item from Denmark – –

This should leave you smiling or laughing out loud..

This segment of the cruise was a whirlwind of sights. It was 16 days with 7 countries – Northern Ireland (1 stop), Ireland (2), Scotland (3), Norway (1), Denmark (4), Germany (1), England (1) and just 3 sea days. Enjoyed every minute of it – but a few sea days in the next leg will be welcome.

E & G weary and exhilarated all at the same time;-)

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