Kharkiv’s El Kabbaba in Skoura was a wonderful, serene existence that should have been enjoyed more and would have been savored on a larger scale if we had only known what was in store at the next stop – Erfoud!!

Hold on to this picture. It will be desired the next morning;-(

Exquisite little Ksar.

A few hours drive will bring one to the entry point of Dades Gorge, created by the Wadi Dades.  The land on the banks of the wadi is planted with many crops such as onions, alfalfa and wheat and is also surrounded by fig, almond and walnut trees.  A beautiful hike with guides will take one through these fertile grounds where harvesting can be observed as well as other daily chores.  Perhaps a beautiful, cool pool can also be found.

Is there a guide available?

Crossing the wadi – AND, this log is much higher off the water than it looks🫣

The poppies were beautiful!

This canyon was quite picturesque.

It took two guides to get us here!

A village woman harvesting some of her crops.

More chores.

A local doing the laundry! (Not appropriate to take the faces – so you get this shot.)

Typical football field here – all sand.

A feature of the rock formations in this area, is that erosion and pressure have pressed the rocks together so that they look like fingers —

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After all this hiking a lunch is in order.  The owner of the store across the street and the lunch spot is know for her kefta – basically meatballs.  Today ground chicken was used and it was delicious in a very scenic setting.  Even here, we had Moroccan tea (as you can see the little tea pot).

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Still several hours to Erfoud, it was time to hit the road again.  Instead of the deer or cattle crossing signs in the US – here one is more likely to see camel crossing signs – and maybe even the camels —

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Another fascination along this route is lots of what looks like very large ant hills!  These are access points to underground channels known as khettaras, which carry water from wells to the oases.  This is an ancient and ingenious network, some covering considerable distances, brought here by the Syrians.

Access points to the khettaras.

Under one of those access points. These tunnels go on forever!

Aren’t these little guys cute – with our guide for the two weeks.

A bit further and Erfoud pops up on the horizon.  Before the 1930’s, the French set up a military post here attempting to watch over the Amazigh tribes, who put up the longest resistance to surrender. It is now the jumping off point for tours of the dunes of the Erg Chebbi desert and stays at the desert camps.  It also, apparently, is the starting point for different desert races and rallies – as we were about to find out!!!

Kasbah Xaluca is HUGE and a bit like a Las Vegas convention hotel😂 – in the middle of nowhere!  It seems that the Rallye Aicha des Gazelles was to begin the next day and hundreds of competitors and all the support staff was being housed here.  You might be able to decipher from the name that this is a race of many types of vehicles ALL DRIVEN BY WOMEN!  Quite an interesting evening after the serenity of Skoura.

All types of vehicles lined up —-

Lots of haulers.

At least the room was quiet – thank goodness.

Another fascinating day – BUT real fascination tomorrow as we head to the desert camp😄

E & G – In for more fun!

Wanting to experience the High Atlas Mountains in Morocco (perhaps to compare them to the Rockies and Park City) the car headed 1 1/2 hours south from Marrakech to Imlil.  The Atlas Mountain range stretches across Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco with its highest peak in Morocco at 13,671′ – Mount Toubkal.  The destination of Imlil sits at the foot of Mt. Toubkal and is a starting point for trekking expeditions.

The drive to Imlil is like the drive to any other mountain town – through the valleys between the peaks with the obligatory mountain stream alongside the road.  However, most roads in the US are not as narrow and many times unpaved due to washouts and generally scary!!  Very glad to have a driver to maneuver.

Beautiful scenery kept our eyes off the road;-(

One arrives at the small mountain village of Imlil at the head of the Ait Mizane Valley after navigating through the Ait Bouguemez Valley.  Most people come here to tackle Jbel Toubkal – we would be tackling a 2 mile hike to an adjacent village for lunch!  But, first one must get to accommodations.

A great suggestion here is Kasbah du Toubkal – an imposing fort (Kasbah) on the slopes below the peak.  “Check-in” at the village reception in town in order to get a mule to carry your luggage and to be sure the gate is unlocked when you arrive.  Then – start your trek – –

Our guide, Abdou, checking in for us.

Yep – those are our bags;-)

Lots of color and buying opportunities to distract one from the climb!

First sighting of the Kasbah – on the left through the trees.

About to see what is behind this gate.

As the sign indicates – this complex was resurrected from the Kasbah of old and completed in 1995.  However, a good portion was destroyed in the earthquake less than a year ago.  The dining room and some guest rooms are gone so a terrace is used as a makeshift dining room and the guest rooms that have been restored are now available.  Tourism is basically the only source of income to this area, so getting any portion usable again was very important.

The beautiful grounds inside with the dining area on the right upstairs with the windows.

The remains of the dining room. Thankfully when the earthquake occurred everyone had just finished dinner and left.

Photos of earthquake cleanup activities on sight.

It is possible to arrange to take a short hike to an adjacent village and have lunch prepared by a Berber woman (a local of the area) and be a guest in her home.  This is an excellent thing to do in order to understand how these families live, how difficult their lives are and to appreciate every little thing one has in the US!!!!  It also helps to understand how significant tourism is for these people and how much the earthquake hurt them without it.  The tale here and the pictures will not begin to tell the story.

Off we go on a good, sturdy walk through the ‘forest’.  This is actually groves of various types of trees and terraced land that produce goods for food or for sale.  The trees are walnut, apple, quince, olives and cherries to name a few.  The crops include wheat, various spices, onions, asparagus and many others.

A rather narrow trail above the terraced crop areas and water duct.

A view of the village where lunch will be prepared and served.

Just to the right of the aluminum roof below the laundry is a tiny dark slit of a window behind the fan unit. That is the destination!

Through the village.

The home of the visit.

Upon arrival, guests meet the hostess and are escorted into a lovely little area set up for eating.  Of course, you are welcomed with Moroccan tea and appetizers.  Although the hostess does not join, she does a wonderful job of preparation including making the fresh bread.  This she invites us for a demonstration.

The very festive eating area.

Our hostess making fresh bread placing the dough around the walls of the ‘oven’.

The making of this bread – in this traditional manner – is NOT done just for us.  The women in this and surrounding villages do this daily making enough for their family for all three meals every morning.  It is done in these ‘ovens’ with wood fires as electricity is too expensive.  Almost all cooking is done with similar fires – as all tajines, etc.

A beautiful, delicious lunch with that fabulous warm bread’-)

After filling the stomach, it is time to head back to the Kasbah.  Beware – our guide did not want us to be bored with the same path back so he made us into goats;-)

Treacherous but beautiful!

If you haven’t had enough walking yet for the day, head up to the waterfall just beyond the Kasbah.  This is only about ten minutes of flat walking and is really quite fun;-)

Several restaurants are adjacent to enjoy the falls.

Morning comes and the sun just begins to light up the peaks of Mt. Toubkal.  So – one last look, breakfast and the hike down to Imlil.  As another day means much more to see on the way to the desert camp a couple of days away.

The view from our room. Goodbye!

Next stop is Skoura, a sleepy little town surrounded by a palm grove.  But in order to get there, one must go over the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass.  At an altitude of 7,400′ it is the highest road pass in Morocco and goes from one side of the Atlas Mts to the other.  And, from fertile valleys to sandy desert.

Scary road. Built by the French in the 1920’s.

Awesome little lunch spot with the cyclists and bikers!

Coming out of the High Atlas area into the southern oases, one travels the Route of 1,000 Kasbahs.  One of the most striking and best preserved in the country is Ait Ben Haddou.  It is reached on foot from the newer village on the opposite bank of the river by crossing a well constructed bridge and then climbing LOTS of stairs through the ksar.  The ksar was once heavily fortified and inhabited by hundreds but now houses fewer than 10 families.  It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site but is best known for its appearances in many films including Game of Thrones, Gladiator and The Mummy.

Ait Ben Haddou!

Yep! We are going up to the top where the grain and food was stored.

A view from the top – the defense of the ksar.

Continuing along the Road of Kasbahs, the place of refuge for the night in Skoura is finally reached.  The Ksar el Kabbaba was truly a welcome, peaceful retreat for the afternoon and evening.  Beautiful surrounding gardens (in which breakfast may be eaten), exquisite rooms, delicious food (with alcohol if desired) and a magnificent spa.  But first – – you guessed it, welcoming tea – –

Very welcoming room.

Peaceful grounds.

While this would make a restful stop for a few days, one night is all that is on the agenda.  Next up is Erfoud and the entry point to the desert camp.

E & G with continuing new adventures

You know the old saying – “Don’t judge a book by its cover”?  Well, Morocco is a GREAT example of this!

So many friends and various sources said – “when in Marrakech, one must eat at Dar Yacout”.  So, with reservation in hand, the car started in that direction.  All the while wondering where in the world are we being taken??  Literally, down a dark alley where a typically dressed Moroccan was waiting to be the escort into another world –

Yes – this is the place even with very nice linen engraved napkins await.

The destination is an old riad that has been beautifully redone – all the way to the rooftop bar which overlooks Marrakech.  This is the first stop for the evening to relax and enjoy a drink with a view.  Don’t hurry!  You will be escorted to your table – covered in flower pedals – when the time is right.

Beautiful night – beautiful views!

No need for menus – it is a 5 course (with extras) set meal.  Each course is ceremoniously presented in a large, decorative tajine looking piece by a very happy server.

Course 1 – salads

Course 2 – chicken tajine

Courses 3 & 4 – lamb tajine and couscous with vegetables.

Course 5 – HUGE pastilla! And, VERY delicious.

Made it through all 5 courses with a smile and ready for tea, only to be brought Moroccan sweets with the tea;-)

Finally done with this exquisite evening.  The food, service and atmosphere were all superb!  Oh – forgot to mention, there was also fantastic, live background music throughout the evening.  AND – all this for the dollar equivalent of $70 per person.  You read right.  A fantastic evening at an incredible value.  Don’t miss it if you are ever in Marrakech;-)

In case the above dinner doesn’t intrigue you – perhaps a cooking class with Fatima at Chef Tarik’s would.  Again – don’t judge the book by the cover as we were driven to the middle of nowhere and stopped at this gate.  Once through, we were in another oasis.

Are you sure we are in the right place?!?!

As is typical, the first stop was a welcome with Moroccan tea.  Only this time you learn how to make it and how to ‘salute’ but with the Moroccan “bessaha” – –

The chef and her assistant teaching how to make the traditional Moroccan tea.

The menu for the class is very similar to the dinner had at Dar Yacout.  First salads, then chicken and lamb tajines and couscous.  All in a couple of hours!  But first, one needs to know and understand all the spices that are used in these dishes.  And, there are many – –

Beautifully presented.

The lamb tajine is started first, as it takes the longest to ‘simmer’.  It is followed by the chicken tajine and then the couscous.  (Notice all the cooked dishes are done over charcoal fires.  This is done in the homes also, as electricity is very expensive. We’ll experience this at the next stop.) In between, the carrot and zucchini salads are prepared even leaving time for a tour of the grounds.

Chef Gary with the lamb tajine.

Chef Elizabeth with the chicken tajine.

The tomato rose from the tomato skin (made by Elizabeth!).

Bread preparation in the wood oven (not done by us thank goodness).

All of the food having been prepared and cooking, there was a tour of the facilities.  As said in the beginning, this was an oasis beyond the gate in the middle of nowhere;-). This setting was just completed and moved into a few weeks prior to this visit.  The move was to accommodate larger tour groups.  Today was perfect, as there were no other groups – so the chef was all ours!

Fabulous setting.

They also raise much of what is used in the cooking.

Now, time to enjoy the fruits of the labor.  The two tajines, couscous and the two salads (notice the tomato roses atop the salads).  The chefs can be very proud of themselves as all was delicious!  Oh – and not to worry – there was delicious dessert that we did NOT have to make.  Just enjoyed;-)

Bessaha!

Our teacher – Chef Fatima at Chef Tarik Cooking School.

This was another wonderful experience.  If one has enough days to take a morning and visit the Chef Tarik Cooking School to learn traditional Moroccan cooking and enjoy the lunch it is well worth it.  Enjoy!

Just a few additional spots to visit after all the food.  Off to Dar el Bacha Musee.  This lavish palace was the home of the governor of Marrakech from the early to mid-1900’s and was renovated in 2017 to house a museum.  A drawing card here (besides the beautiful artisan work) is Bacha Coffee.  Check it out.

Superb tile work.

One more stop for the music fans – The Museum of Music.  A small but informative display of African instruments and three nights a week there is a live performance – –

Three very full days in Marrakech – but a lot was seen and done – AND EATEN!  Marrakech should not be judged by its cover.  Really dig in and explore and enjoy.

E & G – Having enjoyed Marrakech moving to the High Atlas Mountains

Would you know we’re riding on the Marrakesh Express?  They’re taking me to Marrakesh – All aboard the train, all aboard the train!

In this case – Youssef (our driver) is taking us south from Casablanca to Marrakesh!  Upon arrival at one’s riad, one is escorted to a very calming scene for the traditional Moroccan tea and sweets.  Relax and chill – nothing will happen fast and when the tea is done your bags will be in your room;-)

Welcome to the Riad AlMaha.

Enjoy the calm and tranquility – and our room, the last on the right.

A good three days here might allow one to fully understand Morocco and the many parts to any of its cities/towns.  Each of these parts is on steroids in Marrakech!  There are the souks (shopping areas) within the walled medinas (old protected city centers), as well as mosques, plazas and riads (traditional townhouses now turned into boutique hotels) with plenty of opportunities to experience the architecture, amazing food and mint tea!

With all of this to see and do, one must hit the ground running.

First stop is the Koutoubia Mosque (No. 1 thing to do in Marrakech) with a minaret that dominates the skyline due to legislation that no building should rise above its height, which makes it a very good landmark for visitors.  This Mosque was built during the 12th century when a new sultan came to power and destroyed the 11th century sultan’s mosque (on the same spot) claiming it was not oriented properly to Mecca!! It was built to be the largest in the western Muslim world and remains the largest in Marrakech.

Approaching the Mosque de la Koutoubia.

Manuscripts souk once took place around the mosque thus giving it the name – “Booksellers’ Mosque”.

One thing to be wary of if traveling in a Muslim country is the timing of Ramadan.  The first few days of this visit were at the very end of Ramadan when the fast was broken, which is a VERY big holiday for Muslim’s (our Christmas and the way Easter used to be added together).  Therefore, for two days there was little open, including all the souks in the main shopping area.  This also spilled over to restaurants – but, we did not go hungry.  Just had to deal with more crowds than usual at the few places open – –

Our lunch spot in the old Medina. Lucky to find a little shade as temps also getting HOT in April.

With stomachs happy, it’s off to the Mellah – the former Jewish quarter of Marrakech.  It was the largest mellah in Morocco, accommodating approximately 16,000 inhabitants, as many Jews escaped to Morocco during the Spanish inquisition in the late 1400’s and again during WWII.  The LaAzama Synagogue (Synagogue of Deportees) was built by those Jews expelled by Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand in 1492 and headed by its founder – Rabbi Yitzhak Daloya.

Synagogue LaAzama.

Next up Palais Bahia.  This palace was built by two sultans – father and son.  The father began building it for his wife, but unfortunately died before the palace was completed.  So – the son took his father’s wife as one of his main wives and named it for her “Palais Bahia” – Palace of the Favourite or Beautiful.  The best craftsmen in the kingdom were hired to build and decorate this palace using the best marble, cedar and tiles.  It has several beautiful courtyards with trees and flowers and a plainer one for the concubines – –

One of several open air squares in the Bahia Palace complex.

Now – perhaps the most beautiful, calm and serene place in all of Marrakech – The Majorelle Garden (No. 5 of must sees – although much higher in my book!).  In 1923, Jacques Majorelle, an expatriate French painter, fell in love with Morocco and built himself a villa surrounded by beautiful gardens and included his studio.  After his death the property fell into disrepair until Yves Saint-Laurent bought and restored the property in 1980.  The garden is home to over 400 varieties of palm trees and 1,800 species of cactus (we felt right at home!).  Little did we know, Majorelle blue was the color of the day;-)

The Jardin Marjorelle was beautiful, shady and cool.

Beautiful ponds —–

.——– with Lilly pads covered with frogs —-

—–and beautiful gazebos.

The blue and yellow color scheme filled the gardens.

Just loved these little guys;-)

The Berber art and antiquities in the museum were awesome.

Even the exit from the cafe (where tea and crepes can be enjoyed) was exquisite!

It is very difficult to leave the gardens, as they are so peaceful.  But, one must continue to work their way through the top 5 things to see and do in Marrakech!  So, headed to No. 4, the Ben Youssef Medersa.

This Medersa (school) was originally built in the 14th century, was once the largest Islamic school in North Africa and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It was expanded in the 16th century, abandoned and fell into disrepair in the 18th century and restored in the 19th century.  It is an incredible example of Moroccan architecture with the building made of red sandstone and decorated with intricate tile patterns and stunning carved stucco/plaster!  The detail is unbelievable – –

The Madressa Ben Youssef carved cedar, and stucco and the mosaic tile work were beautiful.

Another day – another lunch.  This little cafe was just the ticket today with a spot on the rooftop and very decorative chairs;-)

Lunch break.

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Two days have now been spent wandering the Jemaa el-Fna (must see No. 2), the square that is the nerve center of Marrakech and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Surrounding Jemaa el-Fna is a maze of Souks (trade stalls and No. 3 must see), where a wide range of goods are offered.  You can find everything here from olives, spices and fruit to leather and metal goods and everything in between.

Olive vendor.

Spices, dyes and yarns.

Your basic Moroccan shoe store.

Fruits and vegetable stands galore.

Whew!  In a day and a half the 5 must sees have been experienced plus several more and lots of food has been eaten.  More to come –

E & G working our way thru Marrakech

The Moroccan adventure begins here – in Casablanca.  This small settlement named Anfa (‘hill’ in English) in the 7th century grew to a major trade center in Morocco during the 20th century.  This was due to the vision of the first resident-governor (as a French protectorate), who set about developing the port and adopted the Spanish name Casablanca (white house).  In fact – this name may have had a significant effect on world events because in January, 1943, FDR and Winston Churchill met in Casablanca to determine the date of the allied landings in Normandy.  The Germans got wind of the meeting but translated “Casablanca” to “the White House” and believed the meeting was in Washington, D.C. and never stopped the meeting!

But, back to the future.  One’s thoughts of the land around Casablanca might be of sand dunes and camels.  However, approaching the city from the air gives the feeling of flying over the California central valley where agriculture is a major industry —

The green of patchwork farmland.

Having landed and ventured into the city, Casablanca is like any other large city – LOTS of traffic!  That’s where the refuge of a riad (hotel) comes into play.  LeDoge is just that boutique hotel in a 1930’s townhouse that makes each guest feel quite special.

The lovely LeDoge Hotel

It was discovered that the journeys in Morocco always begin with a welcome Morocco tea and sweets.  Don’t plan to hurry in, get your key and settle into your room.  That is NOT the way it works.  The luggage is left at the desk as you are escorted to a very pleasant seating area to relax and enjoy the tea – and these items do NOT come quickly.  They give you time to relax from your journey and unwind.  Shortly, the tea will come.  While you are enjoying, your things will be taken to your room – waiting for you when you finally arrive;-)

Chill!!!  Enjoy the tea and sweets.

There are two things Casablanca is known for.  One a bit silly and the other quite serious – Rick’s Cafe, from the movie Casablanca, and the Hassan II Mosque.

First, Rick’s Cafe.  As a real fan of the movie Casablanca, it is watched annually.  And, even though the movie was shot on a California set in its entirety, with no one involved in the movie having ever set foot in Casablanca, Rick’s Cafe was a must see – and very nice dining experience.  The food and service were wonderful and wouldn’t have been missed for anything!!

Of course, dinner at Rick’s Cafe was a must. Bogart and Bergman were nowhere in sight;-(

Now – for the serious.  The number 1 attraction in Casablanca is the Hassan II Mosque – the only mosque in Morocco that can be entered by a non-Muslim.  The late king, Hassan II, wanted to create and leave something for the people of Morocco that would incorporate the religion, Moroccan architecture and the talents of the Moroccan Artisan.  The result is a magnificent structure designed by the French architect Pinseau and various Moroccan artisanal bodies.  It took 7 years to build and 35,000 craftsmen who worked with marble, iron, stucco and tile mosaics.  It blends traditional Moorish architecture with 20th century innovation such as the sliding roof and glass floor through which the Atlantic Ocean can be seen.  The results are stunning!

The minaret soars 656 ft above the ocean, reportedly making the mosque the tallest religious building in the world.  The highlight inside is the vast prayer hall.  Every surface is covered with exquisite decoration from patterned marble floors, intricate tiling, carved stucco work and carved wooden ceilings.  Even the chandelier lights are from Murano, Italy.

The Hassan II Mosque was spectacular with its soaring minaret.

Before a Muslim enters the Mosque for prayers, they must ‘wash’ in the ablution area.  The washing follows a ritual washing the hands, face and feet reciting prayers as this is done.  Of course, the men and women do this separately.

The ablution area for men.

Even here, the marble and mosaic work was beautiful.

After ablution, one proceeds upstairs for prayers.

The main prayer hall looking toward the minbar (pulpit) and niche with its cedar wood ceiling.

One of several titanium doors in the Mosque.

The detail – and apparent softness – of the carved stucco atop the marble columns was a stark contrast!

More detail of the marble, mosaic work and the carved stucco.

Examples of the many types of ornamentation.

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This visit to Casablanca was everything hoped for.  Time to move on.  We will NOT be riding on the Marrakech Express to get us to Marrakech – but that is the next stop.

Climb Aboard – E & G on the go

From travel friends to the many friends at home – AND all the activities that go along.  

Fast upon our heels after returning home was the annual Halloween Party at Vi.  One of the most fun events of the year, and this year we did some planning while in Greece so that G&E could be a Greek Goddess and her ‘man slave’ (who chose not to be in the pic;-( )

It also didn’t take long to get back to the regular Friday hiking in the Sonoran desert – which was missed during the travel.

A new event for us this year was an excursion to the Los Cedros Equestrian Ranch in north Scottsdale.  If one is ever in the vicinity, check this out.  But, call ahead, as they do not conduct regular daily tours.

As described by the facility, Los Cedros is designed to appear as a Moroccan citadel in the middle of the desert some 2500 years ago.  With the feel of an ancient village, it is surrounded by tall walls and huge doors (made of solid cedar wood from trees from the Atlas Mountains forests of North Africa) that protect citizens (or now horses) from enemies or inclement weather.  Inside the walls is one of the finest horse training facilities in the world – specializing in Arabian horses.  This facility is also utilized by the Budweiser Clydesdale traveling horses when they need a break from their road trailers.  AND – our timing was perfect as they were there for a possible celebration if the Diamondbacks won the world series!  (Unfortunately – the world series parade did not occur.)  A special treat – –

The Canal Convergence in Old Town Scottsdale has become an annual get-together with relatives Rick and Suzy.  Every year is different, but always amazes with some sort of ‘lights and fire’!  A good dinner along the canal banks is included in the evening.

While not a particularly ‘special’ birthday, E managed to celebrate for the better part of a month.  G whisked us away to Las Vegas for a Garth Brooks concert the first part of December, and all the hotels were decked out in their finest Christmas decorations – –

There were also celebrations with family and friends.  Sister Barb, provided a days worth of entertainment at Pop Stroke with putting and lunch.  Tiger and group have created quite a fun environment for all ages to enjoy ‘golf’, eating and the outdoors.

Then there was the very special weekend with lady friends at Castle Hot Springs – a lush and magical  oasis in the desert.  The activities here will keep you busy for days – hiking, farm tours, Via Ferratas, biking, yoga, sound baths………  OR, just relax and enjoy the hot springs and a massage;-)  We did it all – and ate, and ate and ate.

Even with all these activities, there was Thanksgiving and Christmas – all spent with family.  This year the Shoe Crew came to Phoenix for Thanksgiving, where we not only enjoyed that traditional dinner but lots of other activities.  Like the visit to the Animal Conservancy in North Scottsdale.

Christmas took many forms this year.  A pre-Christmas trip to Ridgecrest provided more time with the Shoe Crew and the various hand made gifts by the Grands.  Including brownies that didn’t last long – –

Great delight was provided by niece Demi, as she took us to our favorite Pop Stroke again for a wonderful morning and afternoon – and a great visit;-)

Another favorite this time of year is the Desert Botanical Gardens.  Their display of luminarias is always wonderful and this year the celebration of La Posada was enjoyed with its extra special music, entertainment and food.

It is almost the end of the year, and one of the things enjoyed most here in the desert is the wildlife. Some seen on our walks, in the desert, on golf courses or just out and about.The fall is no exception to this–

And so – another year ends.  They all seem to go so fast these days.  Heard this little tidbit recently, and just loved it – “Life is like a roll of toilet paper. The closer to the end the faster it goes.”  Enjoy life, laugh and Celebrate You – – –

The Best in the New Year – Lots of Love to All – E & G

Lucca – a wonderful, Renaissance walled city in the Tuscany region of Italy and the birthplace of Puccini.  Also, where the next four days would be spent with friends Judy & Tim, who were met at Italian language school in Verona in 2006!  A lovely little apartment in the center of the old walled city with fabulous views was shared.  It was also great for the daily exercise as it was located on the fourth floor with no elevator – but provided the great views!

The view from our apartment in Lucca. Love the trees on top of the Guinigi tower.

A don’t miss is the Cathedral of Lucca in San Marino Square.  The Cathedral was consecrated in 1070 by Pope Alexander II, formerly the Bishop of Lucca.  A peculiarity is the smaller arch to the right that was squeezed in against the bell tower to its right.  Perhaps not the best of planning??

The beautiful white stone and Gothic style are quite stark in this very plain piazza.

Perhaps one of the main attractions in Lucca is the wall that surrounds the old city.  It has been well maintained and as it lost its military importance, the top of the wall became a pedestrian promenade.  The area around the wall is well taken care of with green grass and trees – in essence becoming a park.

A view from the old wall of the city.

More sights along the wall walk.

Lucca is well situated for day trips to many fascinating places and towns.  One of those proved to be Montecarlo!  That’s NOT Monte Carlo!  Montecarlo is a magical medieval town that sits above Lucca in the Tuscany area of Italy.  It has charming little piazzas, an old wall, a Fortress and the Collegiate Church of Sant’Andrea.  There are also many little ristorantes for libations and rest stops;-)

An evening drive to Montecarlo, with our friends Judy and Tim, provided stunning sights.

Beautiful views from Montecarlo.

Another day another adventure.  Barga sits in the Gargagnana, a lush green valley surrounded by the Apuan Alps and the Apennines.  It is a very authentic, hilltop Tuscan town with the marvelous Cathedral – Collegiate di San Cristoforo, considered one of the most important Romanesque examples in all of Tuscany.

The striking Romanesque Cathedral sits overlooking the town from its high perch.

A very interesting Techno_lithic exhibit, which appeared to be the result of this year’s annual workshop, was displayed along the side of the Cathedral.  Even more interesting is that ASU regularly participates in this workshop!

The Digital Stone Project sculpture garden.

Interesting sculptures.

And, with that look into the future it was time for us to consider the trip home.  The next day would literally be trains, planes and automobiles;-)  A very long day to come, but the sweetness of the trip comes with a little bitter of the travel to and from.  And – it has been a very fun adventure.

It is the friends, however, that make the best part of a trip.  We were blessed to begin and end with friends.  Rheta and Tom made the cruise extra special and Judy and Tim made the last few days of our trip a perfect ending.

E&G – Thankful to have the ability to travel and the friends to make it FUN!

The twenty days with WindStar could not have ended in a more stunning way!  Much of the ship was up and on the bow at 5:30AM to watch the sail-in to Venice via the Grand Canal.  According to the Captain, the ship cleared the requirements for this berth by about a foot!  No complaining here as the sights were beautiful – –

Our predawn arrival in Venice – what a sight to see;-)

Piazza St. Marcos with NO people.

And now – off to Rome for the Ryder Cup at Marco Simone GC just outside Rome.  Fingers crossed that the Americans can at least give the Europeans a run for their money????

Marco Simone Golf Club here we come.

In the ‘Fan Zone’ for the Practice round Thursday – Sunny and HOT!

Not overly crowded for the practice round so one could actually see. (The stadium setup for the tee box on hole number 1 is in the right background.)

Jordan Speith climbing one of the many hills on the course (with a smile today).

Friday alternate shot was not a good day for the USA.

The real thing on Saturday and LOTS of spectators. Now – Europe 7 up. It gets worse;-(

E had fun no matter what.

USA play on day 2 was a little better but still not great as the band played on.

Sorry to say, we bagged the final day – it was too hot, humid and crowded. So –  the afternoon was spent at the Hard Rock Cafe watching the game in air conditioned comfort snacking and sipping our favorite libation;-). Some of the commentary from the Italian language broadcast may have been lost but the frequently used “mamma mia’s” wasn’t hard to figure out.

Full attention was to be given the Ryder Cup and no typical tourist adventures.  However – how can one be in Rome and NOT see any of the sights?!?  So, there were a few walks to dinner or coffee, which conveniently wandered by a few of the ‘must sees’.

Beginning with The Spanish Steps, which may have become popular due to their appearance in the classic 1953 film – Roman Holiday.  Built between 1723 and 1726 the 135 steps lead from the Piazza di Spagna to the French monastery church Trinita die Monti and an Egyptian obelisk .  On the way up there are three different terraces referring to the Holy Trinity.  After our stroll by the Steps it was learned that the Ryder Cup teams were just missed as they came down the steps on the way to a formal opening dinner;-(

A crowded Spanish Steps – beautiful at night.

And then there is Trevi Fountain or Fontana di Trevi (derived from tre via or the three roads that come together at the site of the fountain).  The Fountain was built between 1732 and 1762 and features the nautical god Neptune under the center arch with two statues on either side representing Abundance and Health.  Tradition is that if one throws a coin into the Fountain they will return to Rome.

Awesome site.

Interesting how the route back to the hotel took us by the Forum with a glimpse of the Colosseum.  Hard to believe that this political, legal and religious centre for over a million Romans from 27BCE-14CE was buried until excavations began in the 19th century.  Talk about a walk back in time – –

The Forum with the Colosseum in the background.

This column is 7 0r 8 times as tall as Elizabeth it’s HUGE (and beautiful).

Not all was golf and history.  A great little pizza place just a block from the hotel was Crazy Pizza.  It looked a little touristy, but many locals poured in and the entertainment while waiting for dinner was quite amusing;-)  Music blared when the pizza ‘tosser’ came out and sparklers were given to all to participate in the fun.  AND – the pizza was delicious.

Pizza was served with quite the performance from the chef.

While Crazy Pizza is a good recommendation, the Westin Excelsior is NOT.  Don’t stay there.  It was convenient, in a nice part of town BUT OLD and dated.  The best part about the hotel was the picture of Paul Newman on the inside of the elevator door.  He greeted E every morning with that great smile and beautiful eyes.  Hated to say goodbye to him – –

Farewell Paul. Give me another 💋😘

And with that, it was time to move on to another adventure.  The Ryder Cup turned out to be about what was expected – the Europeans won.  Something we were glad to have done, but once is enough.  The few sites of Rome were fun to see after all these years, but friends Judy and Tim were waiting for us in Lucca so time to head to the train.

E & G at the end of a grand experience

Welcome to Hvar, Croatia!  This island in the Adriatic Sea is apparently the new IN place since the likes of Prince William and many Hollywood types now spend time here.  For the likes of us – just wandering, getting in a little more exercise with a hill climb and eating was the order of the day.

The highlight upon entry to the city is the largest old piazza in all of Dalmatia!  It looks very Italian, with Venetian and Renaissance architecture on its three sides, with the imposing St. Stephen’s Cathedral at its core.  This marble paved, pedestrian only area, is the best for people watching and eating an expensive lunch;-)  It also has wonderful views of the 13-15th century fortress (it took a long time to build and rebuild!), which not only acted as protection through the years but is now a tourist attraction providing the best views of Hvar.

The main piazza, St Stephens.

A view of the 15 century fortress, The Fortica, from St. Stephen’s Square.

One more climb – and this is only about 65 steps – up, up, up, for a look at the fortress.

Once out of the old town, the trek up to the fortress is really quite nice.  The path winds through a pine forest and botanical garden, with sights and fantastic views along the way.It is only about a mile up – so provides some good exercise for the ship weary legs.

An old church along the path.

Our destination.

Once up to the Fortress, there are more wonderful views.  And, for those that can’t go more than an hour without food or drink, there is a little bar for a sit down;-)

Terrific view of Hvar and its harbor from the top of the fortress.

A combo ticket at the Fortress will also get you into the Arsenal and Theater back on the piazza.  This theater is Europe’s first community theater dating back to 1612 and is still utilized today.  If you are there during the summer season check the schedule as you might be lucky enough to see a performance here.

Again – very Venetian.

Hvar also has wonderful beaches and inland lavender fields – neither of which were on the agenda this trip.  However, we did take in a few of “the rich and famous” sights while on the island – –

Who knew about E’s widespread empire.

One of many very large boats in the harbor – only wish this also belonged to E.

Hvar was definitely upscale and a lot of fun to spend a bit of time.  One more quick stop before this part of the journey ends – and  that is Zadar.  Next to our pier is something called the Sea Organ – where the sea water comes under the steps creating sounds/music as though listening to an organ.  A quick step into the sea and listen to the Organ and off to Venice.

In Hadar, Croatia just a brief walk to listen to the Sea Organ.

This cruise has been as great as hoped for.  After 4 days in Athens there were 6 Greek islands, 2 stops in the Peloponnese, one stop in Turkey to see Ephesus, sailing through the Aegean, Ionian and Adriatic Seas, 1 stop in Montenegro and 3 stops in Croatia!!  Now on to Rome and the Ryder Cup.  More soon –

E & G thrilled with our past three weeks and looking forward to cheering on the USA in Rome;-)

Leaving the Ionian Sea going north, one sails into the Adriatic Sea and the southern tip of Croatia where Dubrovnik pops up.  The entire pedestrian only Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Another exquisite walled city that feels like a small town, but 500 years ago was a major maritime power with the third biggest navy in the Mediterranean!

Approaching our destination.

THE thing to do in Dubrovnik is to walk the 15th century wall.  A mile and a half will give you outstanding views of the walled town, the surrounding neighborhoods and, of course, the sea.  But – one must be prepared for ups and downs as 18 flights of stairs will be completed by the end of the walk!!  Also, if you are a Game of Thrones fan you can watch for familiar scenes;-)

Great old wall – still protecting the Old Town.

Just as in prior walled cities in the area, the walls did a good job of protecting from everything EXCEPT that 1667 earthquake.  Then Dubrovnik also fell victim to the violent separation of Croatia from Yugoslavia in 1991 (one forgets that so many wars of separation took place in this area in the early 1990’s).  The city was devastated but repaired quickly.  The reminders of the war and the rebuild are the brighter orange tiles seen when walking the wall.

Lots of great views from above the city.

Our climbing efforts are rewarded with more great pics of bell towers and our ship in the background.

The highest point on the wall – what’s a few more stairs?!?

The second big attraction in Dubrovnik is walking – or strolling – the Stradun, the main pedestrian promenade through the middle of town.  It begins at one gate into the city and runs right into the middle of ‘the Wall walk’ at the other end of the town.  A walkway now – it was once a channel that divided the town into two parts.

The Stradun is very Italian!

They even found room for most of a basketball court.

A view of a newer part of town outside the old wall. The Fort of St. Lawrence is on the left.

On the very last part of the Wall walk, one comes face to face with that bell tower seen at the beginning of the walk.  If timed right (on the hour or half hour), you might see Maro and/or Baro strike the bell!

Come on guys – you can do it!

Back down on  the ground, one must walk the Stradun.  It’s the best place for people watching, shopping and gelato;-)  There are many arms off the main drag that lead to many other museums and churches.  One even looks like the Spanish Steps in Rome.  These lead to the old Church of St. Ignatious.

More steps – up to Church of St. Ignatious.

An elaborate interior.

This may be the last of the walled cities on this trip.  They have provided incredible views, great exercise and lots of history!  Now a few more beaches and the canal city of Venice.  But, what we are really excited for is Rome and the Ryder Cup, where activities have already begun.

E & G – all walled out and ready for golf